Bareshaft Tuning (Give it to me straight, Doc)

[Simba]

Ok, I need to do this. I'm a student with a meager budget, but I want my setup to be best for what I've got.

Equipment: Shakespeare X24 40# @28". My draw = 29". I'm shooting 3rivers Hunters Wood Arrows. 50-55 spine. Cut to 31.50". I have 125 gr field points and 2-blade zwickey eskimos. I'm obviously willing to buy more shafts/points/broadheads within reason. I just need to know where to start.

I want to check the tuning on my bow first, then install fur silencers (though this string is really quiet with my arrows so far). I shoot with a great northern rubber strap on bow quiver (5 arrows). Should I buy bare shafts of the same arrows and attach points of different weights here? Or is it just as good to cut feathers off the quills of the already fletched arrows I own? Is 125 a good weight? Should I try different weights? This is my only bow right now until I graduate from school. It's for hunting mule deer and possibly elk in the southwest and rockies (right now I'm in Utah).  Thanks in advance!!! Let me know if you have any questions about my setup. Oh, I've been shooting into an 18" broadhead block with straw bales behind them and an 8' x 4' plywood backstop behind the bales. Should I get a bigger target in case of flyers? Like a big bag?

[AZ_Longbow]

install the silencers and put the quiver on. then proceed with the tune. the silencers will change the string speed without a doubt.
I would wrap one of the arrows with field point with a bit of seranwrap to hold the feathers down.
though you could shoot both the fletched broadhead and fieldpoint at the same spot. if they are landing close to eachother out to 20+ yards i'd say your good to go. if they are not close that's where you'll want to bareshaft/ papertune.

[maineac]

I have not tried, but have heard that wood arrows can often break on bareshaft tuning.  Paper tuning might be better for your already fletched arrows.

[Simba]

Originally posted by maineac:
I have not tried, but have heard that wood arrows can often break on bareshaft tuning.  Paper tuning might be better for your already fletched arrows.

What makes the wood arrows break more often?

[AZ_Longbow]

Hitting sideways can cause them to snap along the grain.

[Wheels2]

Originally posted by AZ_Longbow:
Hitting sideways can cause them to snap along the grain.

Caused by trying a shaft that was really out of range for your bow.

[Simba]

Originally posted by AZ_Longbow:
install the silencers and put the quiver on. then proceed with the tune. the silencers will change the string speed without a doubt.
I would wrap one of the arrows with field point with a bit of seranwrap to hold the feathers down.
though you could shoot both the fletched broadhead and fieldpoint at the same spot. if they are landing close to eachother out to 20+ yards i'd say your good to go. if they are not close that's where you'll want to bareshaft/ papertune.

So shooting fletched broadheads alongside bare field points is what to do instead of all fields and then glue on broadheads after tuned?

[AZ_Longbow]

shoot fletched field points, fletched broad heads, if they hit the same groups them you should be good.
I usualy throw in a bare shaft into the mix to and it hits with all of them.

[AZ_Longbow]

the rabit was shot at 20 yards, same arrows one was a bare shaft.
This was a fletches shaft, a large cutthroat broadhead deadcenter., and the bottom was a bareshaft at 25 yards. that's my average groups so I was happy with the consistency.

last was at my local proshop mixed in the group at 25 yards is my feather fletched and unfletched. see how they hit together. the blazer was one of the other shooters. .
if your fieldpoints and broadheads hit the same group you are good. just be sure to shoot the broadheads first or you may cut a few arrows in half.

[atatarpm]

Wood arrows do not like to be bare shafted