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Bare shaft tuning carbon question

Started by Kopper1013, January 01, 2015, 11:18:00 PM

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Kopper1013

Hey guys, maybe these are stupid questions but, I'm getting ready to tune some arrow dynamic carbons and have a couple questions.....

First: I would like to foot these shafts with about 2" of 2413 aluminum shaft, when should I apply these in the tuning process if at all? I figure I'm gonna have to trim shafts some so do I glue them in first as long as they can be and trim everything together or....

Second: when you tune aluminum shafts it's easy to just heat them up, pull the points, trim, and reinstall. How are you guys keeping the inserts in yet easily removable so you can trim
when bare shaft tuning?

As always thanks for your time and knowledge
Primitive archery gives yourself the maximum challenge while giving the animal the maximum chance to escape- G. Fred Asbell

Fastltz

Trim the arrow from the knock end...glue footing on before you tune because they will stiffen up the shaft a fair amount.
1 Peter 3:15 ...always be ready to give a defense to anyone who asks you for a reason for the hope that is in you.

JRY309

First off you are tuning Arrow Dynamic tapered carbons,only trim from the front end on a tapered carbon.I would glue a footing on after tuning,you are only adding maybe 10 to 20 grs. to the front end depending on the length of the foot.AD tapered arrows are very forgiving to weight changes up front.I have changed to point weight on my AD arrows by 50 grs. and they still hit the same as with the lighter points.When I tune my carbons I use the saran wrap method.I'll push in the insert with some saran wrap to hold the point and insert in snug enough for shooting.Pull it and trim and do the same until I'm satisfied with my tuning.You will need to use a softer target like a bag target that doesn't grab too tight on arrow removal.Then I'll clean and prep before I epoxy in my inserts.I think adding more then a 1" foot in more then enough.You just want to keep the front end from cracking or splitting.

capt eddie

The low heat glue from Big Jim can be used to install the inserts.  Then just heat a Field point to remove the insert.
capt eddie

Pheonixarcher

Ferr-l-tite cool flex! It's the same thing you're used to with aluminums, but formulated for carbons. It's all I use anymore.
Plant a fruit or nut tree today, and have good hunting tomorrow.
=}}}}}-----------------------------}>

katman

I believe trimming from nock end will stiffen dynamic spine. AD shafts are not as sensitive to spine changes trimming from insert end as parallel carbons and my findings mimic JRY309.
shoot straight shoot often

Fastltz

Im sorry I did not pay close attention. Ad shafts you do trim from front. I used the alum collars from 3 rivers and they were only 1/2 inch. The arrows are very tuff
1 Peter 3:15 ...always be ready to give a defense to anyone who asks you for a reason for the hope that is in you.

Bill Carlsen

My footings are no longer than 1". Don't need them any longer. Your arrow dynamics must be cut from the front so the suggestion to use saran wrap seems to have worked for many. I tune my  shaft simply by cutting them to my normal length and then play with point weight.
The best things in life....aren't things!

Kopper1013

Thanks guys I would have never though of seran wrap very cool
Primitive archery gives yourself the maximum challenge while giving the animal the maximum chance to escape- G. Fred Asbell

Chesapeake

I just use a dab of hot glue for tuning, then epoxy for the final build.
Why foot an AD shaft? They are really tough as is. The only time I've damaged them is when hitting steel on the arrow trashing targets. Even then the insert just crushes back a half inch into the shaft and the nock blows off. The nocks blow off any time you hit solid wood, hard stumps, tree's ect... Buy yourself some extra nocks.
Rick


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