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VPA 3 blade edge?

Started by TradBrewSC, August 07, 2014, 08:48:00 PM

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TradBrewSC

Soo trying to get some thoughts from VPA shooter..

I've been shooting two blades for a while now and was wanting to try these 200gr 3 blades this fall but am having some trouble getting a good edge. I just tried tonight just using my diamond stone and honing rod and it "ain't cuttin the mustard," or the hair on my arm for that matter.

I am sharpening flat  on the stone by the way.

Do I need to go old school like I did back in the day where for my 2016's and 125 snuffers I just used a mill bastard file and a leather strop?

Any experience would be appreciated.

Florida lime

I just got in some 200 grain 3 blade VPAs myself.  I haven't tried sharpening them yet, so I'll be following this thread.

  :campfire:
Martin-Hunter & Bamboo Viper, Black Widow Camo PLX, Holm-made Osprey, Toelke-SS #5 & Super D, Brackenbury Drifter, Wes Wallace Mentor, Kimber Huntsman,  Rose Oak-Wildcat II, Ocelot, Ace & 2 Heritage TDs, Bear-'67½  SK & '59 Kodiak Special - all LH

damascusdave

I have never been able to get the Terminators shaving sharp so I switched to the Penetrators. I did shoot a bear with a Terminator that did not seem to be shaving sharp and got about a foot of arrow out the opposite side. Killed the bear rather nicely. Maybe they do not need to be as sharp as some think.

DDave
I set out a while ago to reduce my herd of 40 bows...And I am finally down to 42

TradBrewSC

I agree. With amount of energy I'm pushing I don't think it is going to matter on a southern whitetail with a 600gr arrow but the satisfaction of a shaving head is always reassuring!

tracker12

I use the 200 grain VPA.  Great head and you will not be disappointed.  I use a marker on the edges then take it off with the file.  Once the marker arks are gone I use very light strokes for a few more strokes.  Them I go to a fine diamond stone,  finish off with leather strop.
T ZZZZ

Ryan Sanpei

Straight out of the package, I've been getting good results with this method.

  http://youtu.be/CpOT0ff0SCk  

Here are the other videos.

  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLZu4fr5l_XYaMe4MOfIhmw

Friend

Have experienced no issue sharpening the Terminator 250's.

Tri hone Jewel Stick and finish with a quartz rod.
>>----> Friend <----<<

My Lands... Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse

bigbadjon

You are probably using too much pressure, that is the most common mistake. Second a diamond stone leaves a really toothy edge that needs to be refined more with a smooth medium fine stone before an extra fine polishing stone is used.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

R. W. Mackey

These are great heads. You can get a shaving sharp edge on
Any 3 blade head. Start with the Mill Bastard file to get the blade bevel right, roll the head after every stroke very important. I use 10 strokes on each edge then go to a course
Flat diamond stone, repeat the 10 strokes rotate after each stroke. Then go to fine diamond stone same strokes. Finish
On a leather strop pulling the head to you.
 Have used this method for years, will work on any 3 blade head, guaranteed.
RW
Don't practice until you get something RIGHT.  Practice until you Can't do it WRONG.  Dave Rorem

Aggie1993

I shoot the VPA 200 and 150. Easiest 3 blade head for me to sharpen. I shoot original WW too but the VPAs and Elite WW are much easier for me to sharpen. I just use a file and diamond stick to finish. Keep even pressure and the same number of strokes per side. Use a sharpie on the edges to make sure it's even and don't "roll" the file. I go back to front.  It took me awhile to figure it out but now I can have a headed that went through and animal and buried in the sand shaving sharp in a couple minutes.  I start with more pressure per stroke and get lighter.  For example, I might start at 10 strokes per side with higher pressure and go to 8, 6, 4, 2 with lighter pressure as I go down. Hope that helps. They are great heads.
Phil 4:13 "I can do all things through Christ who gives me strength."

Kempf Trophy Hunter 58" 51@28
Kempf Kwyk Styk 58" 51@28
Kempf Kwyk Styk 58" 54@28
Kempf Trophy Hunter 58" 51@28

Fletcher

When sharpened flat, a 3 blade won't feel as sharp due to the steeper edge angle, but they can be made very sharp. I've had great results on Woodsmans and VPA Terminators using a 6" flat mill file (single cut) and a crock stick to take off any burr. Very light pressure is the key and they will cut hair easily.  Try your file and strop and see how it does.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.

"The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing."

"An archer doesn't have to be a bowhunter, but a bowhunter should be an archer."

Chain2

File, jewel stick, finish with leather. Light pressure works for me. Great heads. I like the 250's. They are all I use from whitetail to elk to zombies.
"Windage and elevation Mrs. Langdon, windage and elevation..."

DarkTimber

QuoteOriginally posted by R. W. Mackey:
These are great heads. You can get a shaving sharp edge on
Any 3 blade head. Start with the Mill Bastard file to get the blade bevel right, roll the head after every stroke very important. I use 10 strokes on each edge then go to a course
Flat diamond stone, repeat the 10 strokes rotate after each stroke. Then go to fine diamond stone same strokes. Finish
On a leather strop pulling the head to you.
 Have used this method for years, will work on any 3 blade head, guaranteed.
RW
This is almost exactly the way I do it as well.  I don't find it necessary to start with a file when they are new, although it certainly doesn't hurt.  I just use a coarse diamond stone for about 15 strokes on each side then switch to a fine diamond followed by leather.   The biggest part for me was to do as Roy says and rotate the head after each stroke.  When I first started trying to sharpen these heads I wasn't doing this and I had issues getting them as sharp as I wanted.   Now it literally takes me 1 minute to get a head from the package to hair plowing sharp.  

I use the exact same method with the big Snuffers as well except starting with the file is a must and the whole process requires more overall strokes.  

Keep with it, you'll get it.  They really are great heads.

TradBrewSC

Thanks guys, a lot of good info hear!

I am going to try some of these methods tonight, and will advise on the outcome!

Thank you.

dragonheart

QuoteOriginally posted by R. W. Mackey:
These are great heads. You can get a shaving sharp edge on
Any 3 blade head. Start with the Mill Bastard file to get the blade bevel right, roll the head after every stroke very important. I use 10 strokes on each edge then go to a course
Flat diamond stone, repeat the 10 strokes rotate after each stroke. Then go to fine diamond stone same strokes. Finish
On a leather strop pulling the head to you.
 Have used this method for years, will work on any 3 blade head, guaranteed.
RW
Me too!!!!     :rolleyes:
Longbows & Short Shots

R. W. Mackey

Just wanted to clear up how I use the file. Some on here have suggested using a file and stroking it across two of the blades. Not saying this won't work but it is very difficult to maintain the proper angle free hand. I use the largest Mill
Bastard file I can find, 14 to 16", lay it flat on a hard surface and put the Broadhead in some type of holder( old arrow shaft
Or similar ) and stroke the head down the length of the file,
Rotate and repeat.
 By doing it this way, Broadhead always remains level and
Each stroke is the same. Hope this helps. Have used this method for many years on many different 3-blade heads, never found one it wouldn't work on.
RW
Don't practice until you get something RIGHT.  Practice until you Can't do it WRONG.  Dave Rorem

J-dog

Charlie Lamb has a good tutorial on here that I use on three blades.

Do a search for it - it is worth it
Always be stubborn.

Captain hindsight to the rescue!


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