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Profin users

Started by hunting badger, July 24, 2014, 04:47:00 PM

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hunting badger

What method of application do you use with profin for arrows, that works the best? It's a new product for me so trying to see if dipping ,spraying or wipe on works the best.

Thanks, Ken

Mike Gerardi

I dip. 8 to 12 hrs between coats. I also steel wool with 0000 steel wool, then wipe down with a cloth between coats.

Walt Francis

I do what Mike does.

Mike,
What glue are you using on the feathers?
The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

Walt Francis

Regular Member of the Professional Bowhunters Society

luvnlongbow

X2 what Mike said. I have also applied with the throw away sponge type brush. Works well. However I prefer dipping.

Dirtybird


AkDan

I also dip but don't dip over or under my caps with it.  If I over coat it's with a wb poly just to even the shine out.   Some of my caps were semi dull compared to the glassy smoothness of the profin.  One or two dips over the caps  In the poly fixes that.

This allows you to capcrest with just about any paint and not have the compatability issues that plague wood arrow builders.

Mike Gerardi

Walt, I use Duco cement.

bigbadjon

Dipping is the best method for profin and the cosistency is perfect right out of the can. I think most people who use profin use Duco to fletch. Just so you know it will give a yellow tinge over a white cap or cresting.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

wooddamon1

Where can I find this stuff? Thanks.
"The history of the bow and arrow is the history of mankind..."-Fred Bear

luvnlongbow

I purchase direct from Daly's in Seattle. I've found they give you the best price.

WESTBROOK

Damon, if you know someone else who could use some there are places where you can get it real cheap if you buy a 4 gallon pack.

Eric

Bjorn

I like the stuff, it does not stink and in our climate it dries pretty quick. I dip-do a whole bunch of shafts-and return the rest to the original can and seal.

AkDan

it drys slooooow here!  Got to a point I made a drying box and cranked the heat up..still took the better part of 8 hours before it dried, (not cured)

I need to come up with a better drying box, but decided with as few arrows as I do anymore theres no need.  I dip before I leave for work...by the time I'm home 13 hours later, they're ready for more.  I usually leave them sit for 5 or 6 days before I finish sand.

I dont like steel wool..if you use it, buy some tack cloths and clean them well.  I cant say how many times I'd find a thread of it in my finish.  Irks me to no end.  Spend all that time to get boogers lol.

Mike Gerardi

I use a heat lamp at times just to warm up the area around the shafts while the hang and dry.

hunting badger

Thanks guys! AkDan, I live in Alaska also, in Palmer. The drying time worries me but I'll just give it a try and see how it works. One more question, if you dip do you run it through a gasket or just dip straight and hang?

hunting badger

Thanks guys! AkDan, I live in Alaska also, in Palmer. The drying time worries me but I'll just give it a try and see how it works. One more question, if you dip do you run it through a gasket or just dip straight and hang?

bigbadjon

You just dip it and let it run off.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

AkDan

I was just down  your way chasing bows in the valley..fishing was great.  Silvers are in btw.

profin is thin stuff..just dip and hang, I use a knock repair tool to clean up the knock taper slightly without eating into the wood.


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