De-Lamination

Oldbow KY · June 01, 2014, 10:25:00 AM

Had my bow pop yesterday, 2" delam crack about a 1/2" above the fadeout. is it repairable?????

How? With what glue? Heat cured?

The bow is a 38# 62" Black Creek Banchiek I draw 27#

Thanks

Alexander Traditional · June 01, 2014, 10:28:00 AM

I had one do that once,it didn't look like it could be repaired to me.

FerretWYO · June 01, 2014, 01:09:00 PM

It may be I would talk to the bowyer. Allow them to decide. It is a pretty risky repair.

macbow · June 01, 2014, 02:01:00 PM

Just about anything is repairable.
Saw a Hoyt recurve totally crack across mid limb. Were talking totally folder over broke.
An old guy repaired it and you could hardly see any blemish.

A picture would help. A clean Delamination can may times be glued back down with a epoxy like smooth on.
Depends on how clean the crack or separation.

Oldbow KY · June 01, 2014, 02:05:00 PM

Sorry the crack is in the riser section not above.

I actually shot it a couple of times after it split.

Black creek bows are no longer in the bow business.

macbow · June 01, 2014, 07:39:00 PM

If it is just in the wood super glue (thin) will work wonders.

Todd Cook · June 01, 2014, 08:30:00 PM

If it's in the non working part of the riser, super glue may hold it if you can get it into the crack. Try the original thin type, as it will run into the crack. If you could clamp it somehow for an hour or so it would be better.

CLOVIS · June 02, 2014, 02:27:00 PM

Hang it on the wall. Think about your safety first.

ballen28115 · June 02, 2014, 03:42:00 PM

Having had a few bows and couple arrows blow up on me, and also having had a string break, I'd say follow Clovis' advice above. What you can see is one thing, what you can't see is another. You can put an eye out with that thing.

jhk1 · June 02, 2014, 03:53:00 PM

If the crack is entirely in the riser wood (i.e., the fiberglass on back & belly is not delaminated from the wood), instead of regular superglue I'd use a very thin high-quality CA glue (superglue is CA glue) like Loctite 420 or HotStuff (HotStuff is available at Woodcraft stores or their website. It comes in different viscosities-- you want the thinnest one so it works its way deep into the crack). Put some on/in the crack and flex the bow so that the crack opens a little-- this will enable the glue to get way down in the crack. If it all disappears into the crack, work some more in there. Then clamp it up. I'd let it cure for at least 24 hours before flexing or shooting it. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES, put a stringer on the bow and gently flex the bow, listening for strange sounds (keep an eye on the crack to see if it opens at all). String it and look over the repair real good. Draw the bow partially and let it down, gradually working up to full draw. If all looks and sounds good, shoot a few arrows at partial draw, then a little fuller draw, until you get her up to full draw shots. Check the repair after each shot. Just take it slow and don't rush it.

Dave Worden · June 03, 2014, 07:29:00 AM

What jhk1 said. I did this a couple years ago to a bow that has thousands of arrows go through it since then. I clamped the riser in my bench vise and flexed the limb while pouring CA glue (medium density) into the crack till it came out the other side, c-clamped it overnight and worked it up just like described above. Be sure to wear safety glasses until you've shot a couple hundred arrows through it. If it does crack again after this treatment I hope it's a pretty bow and will look good on the wall!

nineworlds9 · June 03, 2014, 07:41:00 AM

Jim Gainey may no longer be building bows but he is a top shelf guy, try PMing him on here and ask about your bow, if he can't repair it for you he can at least give you the know how.

jhk1 · June 03, 2014, 09:30:00 AM

Depending on how bad the crack is, the fact that your Black Creek is under 40# is a good thing-- increases the odds of a successful repair. I'd be less inclined to try it with a 60# bow. Does the back glass run continuously/completely over the riser/handle? If so, my opinion is that this would add strength to the riser/handle, and also increase the odds of a successful repair.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Oldbow KY · June 04, 2014, 10:31:00 AM

Thanks Mates; The split is in the bamboo lam between 1st and 2ed lam of 3 from the back. starts even with the upper fade-out and runs down toward the sight window 2 1/2 in.

I am going to use Loctite 420 that jhk1 recommended.

I will keep everyone informed on the results. This bow is to sweet a shooters to lose!