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Why are my arrows splitting?

Started by TSHOOTER, September 20, 2007, 09:52:00 AM

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TSHOOTER

I'm shooting goldtips with 100 grain brass inserts and 150 gr field tips.  Occasionally I hit something hard in my 3D target and have mushroomed 2 of my carbon shafts.  I glued the inserts with 30 minute epoxy after cleaning the shafts and following directions etc.  I'm thinking my epoxy is not bonding well and letting the insert be driven into the shaft.  Is this a common problem with carbon's?  Would a different insert glue help this problem?

Thanks
He who has the Son has life; he who does not have the Son does not have life.  (1 John 5:12)

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Shakes.602

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Jeff Strubberg

If you are hitting a stake in the leg of the target or a rock, you are going to split the shaft.

Carbons are tough, but they are not indestructable.
"Teach him horsemanship and archery, and teach him to despise all lies"          -Herodotus

BobW

As Jeff said, you will break things.  Try and make sure you have a "squared" end of your shaft (tools sold for that) and the insert is fully seated.  No promise you won't continue to break them.  You need to do your part "better" too and hit the target.  Been there, and still do that....  Financial implications works wonders in making us better.  Good luck!
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6 POINT

I've found that what BoBW said is exactly correct. Buy and use an ASD ( arrow squaring device) I have never seen an arrow that was perfectly square after being cut to length. This leaves a high spot on the end of the shaft and when you shoot and hit an object all the force of that hit is concentrated on that high spot. Sooner or later they will split. I also foot my arrows ( axis) with an inch of the size conduit shaft that fits and glue them on flush with the end of the shaft. 20/20's fit my 340's perfectly. Frank

JC

1) I don't find gold tips to be very durable, 2) I think JB weld makes a better insert glue 3)Rough up the inside of the shaft AND the outside of the insert, clean with alcohol or acetone etc. 4)Depends on how heavy a bow you shoot; it's hard not to break/mushroom shafts when hitting something really hard with bows over the 60# mark.

You may want to try another brand of shaft, I've found the old Carbon Express Terminator Hunters to be the toughest with Carbon Tech Rhino's being a close second.

You may also look at footing the first 1-2" of your shaft with aluminum arrow footing over the shaft...this dramatically increases durability. Do a search for footing carbon arrows and you'll get a lot of good info.

5)What Jeff and Bob said, "Stuff breaks"   ;)
"Being there was good enough..." Charlie Lamb reflecting on a hunt
TGMM Brotherhood of the Bow

TSHOOTER

Thanks guys.  Do you think footing the carbons would hurt penetration on encountering bone?
He who has the Son has life; he who does not have the Son does not have life.  (1 John 5:12)

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TGMM Family of the Bow
P&Y
Comptons

Charlie Cole

Also, when footing does the aluminum go over the insert (all the way to the back of the point) or just to the end of the carbon shaft, leaving the insert exposed?

matt matney

I put my footing on behind the insert.  I use JB weld to install them also.  I also taper my footings using a disk sander which will help penetration.

matt matney

TSHOOTER, If you try a different shaft like JC suggests, stay away from easton axis shafts IMHO.  I think they mushroom easier than anything out there.

JC

I do think footing carbons might hurt penetration on heavy bone with lighter draw weights...but not sure it would make enough difference on our animals over here in North America. Also, if it stopped the shaft with the footing, I don't think an "un-footed" shaft would penetrate much further.

The ones I found to be most durable had the footing covering the insert too...so the footing was flush with the insert opening.

I don't foot most of my arrows, but typically, the few I do have footed are my first choice when I go stumping. Also bears mentioning that these arrows are a wee bit shorter to stiffen the spine in order to accomodate the slight weight increase on the tip.
"Being there was good enough..." Charlie Lamb reflecting on a hunt
TGMM Brotherhood of the Bow

TSHOOTER

I think I'll cut the 2 that split and foot them.  I am interested to see if they will group with my others as I will have to cut and inch off at least.  They are shooting slightly weak to start with so I may end up okay.

Thanks
He who has the Son has life; he who does not have the Son does not have life.  (1 John 5:12)

PBS
TGMM Family of the Bow
P&Y
Comptons

JC

An inch is a lot for carbons. Most folks can see flight differences in carbons by changing length as little as a 1/4". But it's certainly worth a try.
"Being there was good enough..." Charlie Lamb reflecting on a hunt
TGMM Brotherhood of the Bow

hormoan

My personal experiance is it radically increase's there resistance to mushrooming. I foot all of my carbons with alum shaft cut offs. I can't say I have had one fail yet from hard impact's. I've blown the inserts out the front but yet to ruin one. (Actually inertia blows the shaft back off the insert.) It usually adds around 12-14 grs upfront. Depends on how long I cut them, which I do in my lathe. Make sure you bevel the inside and outside edges of the ends. Otherwise they do not pull well from targets. I two part epoxy the footings on the shafts. The footing should be inside beveled also where it meets the insert for a smooth transition.

 

If you read Dr Ashbys report on penatrations, yes a over sized shaft in comparison to the max outside dia of the broadhead will decrease peneatration. But as you can see on most carbons that is not a issue. The Abowyers I shoot are .0352 in dia my footed Gold Tips are .0334 so they are still undersized.
 
 

JMO well worth the increased durability of ANY carbon shaft.

               Brent


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