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3Rivers Flemish String jig question

Started by shag08, September 07, 2013, 09:34:00 PM

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shag08

Hey folks,

I'm in the process of trying to build a selfbow so I figured string building is a must....it will also be SOOO much cheaper than buying strings when I need them for the bows I have.

I ordered the stuff the other evening and it arrived this morning. So I set right in to trying my hand at string making. I made one string and I'm very pleased with the results...I didn't put enough backwards spins in the body of the string to make it perfect when I twisted the bottom loop, so it ain't perfect.  But its holding together and it does have really nice loops in it.

Heres my question.....does anybody have one of the 3Rivers flemish string jigs?  It didn't come with string lengths that are marked in the center.  I'd like to know about what length string it will make  with the peg in any given hole.  I used the hole for the shortest length....and the way I made my ends up....the string came out about right for my K-Mag.

It would really help me out alot to have an idea about what hole to use for "whatever" length string.  I'd hate to have to waste all my thread making strings that I don't need, just to figure out what length they will be.

Thanks.

Grey Taylor

I'm amazed it came with no length marks on it. That's just about as useless as the proverbial things on a boar.
Sorry I don't have any suggestions. The jigs I make are clearly marked for actual string lengths. I wouldn't even give one away that wasn't marked.

Guy
Tie two birds together; though they have four wings, they can not fly.
The Blind Master

LBR

Put the peg in a given hole, then wind off a strand of something--it can be sewing thread.  Cut it and measure that strand.  Depending on how you make your strings, that peg should be the string length for a string 14" to 16" shorter than the strand you just cut.  If the holes are spaced at 1" intervals, then the strings will be in 2" intervals.  If they are at 1/2" intervals, the strings will be in 1" intervals.  If they are at 1", you can drill holes in-between on the 1/2" (I would).

Chad

LBR

Another thought--if the string you made is right for a 52" recurve, them likely that hole is for a 48" string...or very close.  My personal board starts at 41", but it's home-made.

Austin Brown

I have one and if it's the same the first hole is for a 50" bow and each hole is for an inch longer bow.  Mine isn't marked either but I still have the instructions.
Joshua 24:15
As for me and my house,we will serve the Lord.

rmorris

I have a 3 rivers jig and the last peg works for a 68" longbow. 6 holes down makes a 59" string for a 62" longbow.  This works for me with a fast flight string( Dacron strings stretch and I have never figured them out). I also start off with 8" of string folded over for my flimish twist.

Hope this helps
"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Austin Brown

I can probably scan the instructions that came with mine and e-mail them to you if you want. Just let me know.
Joshua 24:15
As for me and my house,we will serve the Lord.

Keefer

I just made my own from a video I once had by Butlers Flemish string making video...If that one didn't come with the peg holes marked out call 3 rivers and ask them what is the first peg in the center of board is supposed to be then like others have already said then mark each hole at 2" like 52,54,56,58 and so on...You can always do a search on making the jig and can do it for around $2.00 for a piece of 3/4"x 4" x 24" pine board and a few finish nails...A drill and an 1/8" bit which most have and your set...Many different ways to make a board but since you already bought one call 3 rivers and have them explain how thiers is marked...

McDave

I have a number of bows I make strings for.  Even some of the bows with the same marked AMO length require different length strings.  Sure, you could twist up a standard length string or leave it mostly untwisted and get it to work, but it wouldn't be perfect.  Some require different sized nock loops to fit right.  So the notes I make for each bow are invaluable for making the next string just right.  I've made enough strings and have enough notes now that I can make a new string for most bows that will work the first time, but inevitably my notes for that bow will include some changes from my first guess.
TGMM Family of the Bow

Technology....the knack of arranging the world so that we don't have to experience it.

Hermon

In defense of 3Rivers or whoever made the jig.  rmorris says he starts with 8" to make his first twist.  I start with 7".  These are for longbows.  On a recurve I start with 12".  Just how I learned.  So depending on how you make your strings and for what type bow, the marks that they would put on the jig, may or may not be correct.

My homemade jig is marked for the BUNDLE length and I keep a log of what bundle length in needed for what type/length bow.  YMMV

BassBow

Hermon is correct. There are many variables that affect string length. Twists, bundles etc. Three Rivers sent a nice instruction pamphlet with my jig. In it they included rough measurements and recipes for a longbow and recurve string. I bet it is on the web site for download.
Toelke Classic Whip 48# @ 28"
Big Jim Buffalo 51# @ 29".

JRY309

Do you Chad recommended,I've been making my own strings for my bows for around 20 years now.I bought a string jig from Kustom King and there was no markings on it.I think it said the first peg was for a 52" bow.But every one seems to be alittle different on where they start the twist.I have heard some start at 7" for a longbow,some at 8",some at 9" and even up up to 10".It will probably take you a couple of strings before you get it nailed down on length.Back when I first started to make my own strings,my buddy and I just used some dining room chairs.We spread them apart at a measured distance and just ran the string around the top post,cut in half and staggered them and then started to make strings.I started without a jig,then bought a jig later on for the ease of measuring string length and to stagger the ends.

shag08

Thanks for the info everybody.

The instructions that came with the jig said, in the first paragraph, "The system of measuring and twisting that you use will alter the finished length of the strings.  For that reason the per-drilled adjustment holes are not marked with a specific length."

I read that far then watched a few videos online and set in making a string.

At the end of page 2 and on page 3 it does give more info on string length.

I feel like a idiot now.    :knothead:

What was it they told us in school?  READ ALL OF THE DIRECTIONS BEFORE YOU BEGIN.  lol

Sorry for wasting yall's time. But thanks again SO much for all the info.  I'm sure it will take some more time and practice to make them all work out right for different length bows.


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