Knocking the burr off?

Biathlonman · July 28, 2013, 10:29:00 AM

Ok, I'll start by saying I'm sharpening challenged. I need you folks to use small words, pictures and videos also help my tiny brain.

I've just about wore out a couple of stones with my KME broadhead sharpener with mixed results. Everything I've read and seen says create a burr then knock it off. Sounds simple but how is that done? I can create a pretty good burr (I think?) But when I flip it over to "knock it off" it just seems as if I flip it to the other side. Back and forth, back and forth, what am i doing wrong?

mjh · July 28, 2013, 10:40:00 AM

try a ceramic rod then a leather strop...that's what I use when I get down to the burr flip flop

ChuckC · July 28, 2013, 10:40:00 AM

Let's add some more (I hope similar / related) questions. When using a KME or similar jig, does it matter which direction the sharpening stroke goes ? Toward the jig ? Towards you ? back and forth ?

One suggestion is to keep the strokes light as you can with still cutting.

Another suggestion, set up a small bench grinder (6" or so) with a polishing wheel on it. Use some light polishing compound on it and CAREFULLY polish up the blade edges you just made. It makes a HUGE difference for my heads.

ChuckC

Biathlonman · July 28, 2013, 10:48:00 AM

Agreed Chuck, which direction we going? I thought it was always away but I'm usually wrong!?

Fletcher · July 28, 2013, 11:02:00 AM

I prefer to work the stone into the edge. IMO the key to removing the burr is very light pressure. Stay with the same stone but use very light pressure alternating sides with each stroke. Too much pressure just keeps making a new burr with each stroke. It should only take a few strokes to remove the burr, then go to a finer stone to create a finer edge and burr. I remove the finer burr by stropping AWAY from the edge on a leather strop with jewelers rouge or just some cardboard. If this fails you, call Ron at KME.

Chuck's polishing wheel works very well as a strop. You can buy a kit with a small wheel and compound that runs in an electric or battery drill. Works great!

Biathlonman · July 28, 2013, 11:07:00 AM

I really hate to bother Ron, but it's looking more and more like a call might be in order. Waiting on my diamond stone to arrive hoping that will be my magic bullet. I've spent a fortune on this thing and stones now, really hoping I don't need a bench grinder and polishing wheels too!

ChuckC · July 28, 2013, 11:14:00 AM

well, maybe there is a similar but cheaper alternative available in a jig for your drill.

It really works well for me, I now do it for all my two blade heads. I haven't had the nerve to try it on three blade heads. Be careful.
ChuckC

damascusdave · July 28, 2013, 11:18:00 AM

I know this sounds kind of off the wall...just before I take any broadhead hunting I like to shoot it a couple of times into my Rhinehart Rhinoblock target...there is just something about the material in that target that helps to put the final touch on a broadhead edge for me...kind of like a big foam strop that works both sides of the edge at the same time

DDave

Gator1 · July 28, 2013, 11:20:00 AM

Call Ron x 3

He will get you dialed in heck I sharpened a head while he was on the phone and by the sound he told me when to change stones

No kidding

:eek: :eek:

damascusdave · July 28, 2013, 11:25:00 AM

I am also not a big fan of sharpening broadheads...from a recent thread it became pretty clear to me that the need for a cutting tip, at least with a heavy arrow and heavier draw weight, is greatly overplayed...for elk and moose this year I am going to be using my old 160 Grain Thunderheads...no need to worry about sharpening those puppies...they come out of the bow ready to hunt

DDave