Help with TD glass longbow build please

[StephenR]

I started a project in feb this year and I have too many questions to go any further.I have glued up the risers,have the laminations,have smooth on,glass,hardware and the form is rough cut.




now for the questions

1 how do I true up the form?(perfectly square)

2 the lams are 36".I am shooting for a 58"-60" bow with a 15" riser.Do I cut them down before glue up even if I have a reverse taper in there.

3 what stain works well with smooth on and curly maple?


4 should I clean bacote before glue up?

5 Can I use a .25" metal,a rubber strip,and clamps?? Or should I go with the firehose method?

And finally does anyone near me have time to walk me through the process??

Thanks in advance for any help,

Stephen

[elk ninja]

#1... Square it up by taking your time.  Don't go with power tools, use a good square guide.  The form will last a long time, so take your time.  The journey is the destination, don't rush.
#2... I cut them after glue up.  I save the pieces just for fun.  I can show them to someone I am makeing a bow for and they can see in person what XXX wood looks like.
#4... Yup, clean that bacote.  clean all wood while you are at it.
#5... thats pretty much what I use.  Cork instead of rubber.  With the clamps, watch your pressure, preferabbly using a smaller block (2-3") of wood (hardwood that is) or metal.
Mike

[ONE SHOT]

Stephen First the best way to TRUE up the form surface is to use a Bottom blade planner or jointer. The two surfaces must be SQUARE, or you will have a TWIST in the limbs

Second:Yes you can cut-off the laminations before glue-up, but you can also cut-off after glue-up, just in case you may need that extra length for one reason or another.

Third:Use a Alochol base stain. 3-Rivers sells it so does Bingham Supply. Don,t use oil based stains on your laminations, because it might keep the wood and F?G from sticking together. (NO OIL BASE STAINS) water base is ok thou. But Alchol is better.

Fourth: I have used both methods for making My Bows both Recurves and Long Bows. If you are only going to make a couple of Bows then the "C" clamp method is ok, but if you plan on in the futher on making more Bows then go with the Air-Hose method. The big advantage of the Air-Hose method is you will get a more uniform pressure along the entire length of the Bow.

Bingham Supply has Videos showing all the steps neccesary to make Bows. I recomend that you give ElMont Bingham a call.

Hope I helped clear up some questions that you had....ONE SHOT...          

[d. ward]

Hey Steve,Several years ago I was over checking out this bow builders stuff.The guy had a form almost done.I kinda asked how he kept it square (one shot mentioned limb twist)thinking a little limb twist out of the form could cause alot of pain down the road.The guy pulled out a router with a straight bit about 2-2 1/2 maybe 3 inches long.Finished cutting the form with the router and it was pretty darn square.He cut the riser with the router also.Which made it nice and square too.Seemed to work good.bd

[StephenR]

Thanks guys, that helps alot.Off to the shop.

Stephen