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Leather for Back quiver?

Started by wigeon, January 09, 2013, 06:00:00 AM

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wigeon

Looking for somewhere to buy some leather for back quiver.Thinking about making two back quivers for my son and I,the deer season is winding down.And I am looking for a project to spend some quality time with the boy.So for all you guys that made their own quiver Where can i get some leather?What kind and how heavy do you recommend?Thanks in advance for any help on this.John

cuboodle

Google Tandy leather, they have all you need including plans and if you dig around the site your see their buyers guide that explains the thickness and the types of leather.

BCWV

Try these folks.  http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/
I used 5/6 weight and ended up with just what I wanted.

Bud B.

5/6 or 6/7. I have a side now of 7/8 I intend to make two quivers out of. I think that may be a bit stiff but it'll last forever when finished.

I use Zack White Leather. I live near there and can hand pick some for you and ship. I like veg tanned leather but they sell all kinds. For two quivers you can get out for way less than $100 including leather lace and shipping. I have a PP account if I can be of assistance. I'll be heading there some time this week.

There inventory/prices online are not an accurate representation of what they have on hand. The 7/8oz bull hide double shoulder cost me roughly $85 with lace and tax and it'll do two full size Hill quivers. It is around 11 ft sq. A similar size hide in 5/6 should run $50-70 depending on the actual square footage. Shipping wouldn't be
too bad but a rolled up hide is oversized.

zackwhite.com/xcart/home.php?cat=260

I'm more than happy to help.

You can call Zack White and tell them what you want and how much you want to spend and they'll fix you up. They are a mom and pop shop with about four employees.

Good luck in your venture.

Bud
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

dhaverstick

I personally like using 8 oz buffalo leather for quivers. It's not quite as stiff as vegetable tanned cowhide and it has a beautiful textured look to it. It's also very easy to work with. I get mine from The Hide House in Napa, California ( The Hide House ) They have very good prices, quality hides and their shipping is reasonable.

Jhawk

Wicket and Craig tannery is in Curwenville, PA.  Not sure how far they are from you, but they have the best leather you can buy.  They are one of only a few US tanneries and you can buy single sides directly from them.  If you can make it to their shop I would go directly to the source.

hedgerowhuntr

I read an article recently where the author made his quiver from leather purchased from Crazy Crow Trading Post. Looked like good stuff.

M60gunner

I use Latigo leather. It will last forever and doesn't need to be stained like veg tanned leather. I just finished a Robin Hood style quiver using Latigo. Use 72"boot laces, much tougher than the stuff on the rolls.

sticknstring73

I have a question about using latigo for quivers:
From what I understand latigo leather will bleed. I have had some experience with oil-tanned leathers and they do indeed bleed on anything. The thought of using a back quiver or an armguard out of the stuff brings up images a lot of ruined clothing. Has anyone had this experience?

markliep

3rivs has a precut self-assemble leather quiver for a little over $50 - works fine - M

M60gunner

When I use Latigo leather I rub it with olive oil first. It gets most of the dye out of the leather so I do not end up with stained shirts. Been there done that.

2treks

I thought I read on one of the Threads for this subject, about a leather that won't bleed.
Does anybody remember that? I can't find it.
CTT
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
~ Francis Chan

2treks

C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
~ Francis Chan

2treks

C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
~ Francis Chan

irishhacker

I was thinking of using leather coats I picked up cheap from goodwill.
60x Custom Strings Staff Shooter  http://www.60xcustomstrings.com/

2treks

QuoteOriginally posted by Two Tracks:
I thought I read on one of the Threads for this subject, about a leather that won't bleed.
Does anybody remember that? I can't find it.
CTT
CTT
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
~ Francis Chan

Bud B.

Chuck,

Call Zack White Leather in Ramsuer, NC and ask the owner W. T. Cox (not Zack White, who retired in 1985 after 50 years in the business)). Mr. Cox has been in the leather business for most of his life. He'll tell you all you need to know about leather.


STORE HOURS: We are open weekdays 8:00 AM until 5:00 PM and on Saturdays 8:00 AM until 1:00 PM. Closed All Major Holidays

Phone:
(336) 824-4488
Fax:
(336) 824-5438

I'm off today and may run over there. My cell is 336 402- three eight three three.

I have asked him the same question a while back. I was told that any dyed leather will bleed some no matter what you do if it gets wet enough. Drum dyed leather (which is oil based dye, I think) will bleed the least, but will bleed if wet enough.

There are clear coat finishes you can apply over dyed leathers (Satin Sheen is one named product...maybe made by Fiebing's?) that will inhibit bleed, but again, if wet enough, it will eventually bleed.

Hope this helps.
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

Scott Teaschner

Latigo will bleed for the life of the product. Latigo is designed to be up against the side of a working animal. It has a ton of waxes and fat lacquers to combat mainly salts from the animals sweat. If you sweat like a work mule hooked up to a plow then go this route but if you don't these are the better options.

Staining or dying and fishing a product are 2 different subjects. If you stain or dye with out applying a finish you will deal with bleeding and bad stuff leaching into your leather.

You can buy leather in colors which would eliminate dying or staining to reach a desired color. You can also buy leathers that I feel are better suited for quivers than say latigo. They will usually cost a little more because of the tanning process.

English bridle or western bridle would be my first choices for a leather with finishes that do not require any oils or finish to the surface. English will cost more than a western bridle. Bridles start as veg tan but have other processes added like oils added and a finish to the surface.It can be had in domestic tan (more money) and imported (less money). It has wet forming capabilities but not as good as just veg tan.

Good Veg tan is not cheap either and if it is it generally shows in every way! Veg tan can also be had in different colors. But natural is more common. Veg will need to be oiled and sealed with a finish to be fully protected. Finishes include lacquers (very good but hard for beginners to use) waxes and other liquids like harness dressing and Tan Kote both offered through Fiebing's. I would recommend the last two for hobbyists.

Hope this helps Scott.
Don't ever try to be like any body else and don't ever be affraid to take risks. Waylon Jennings
Honesty is something you cant wear out. Waylon Jennings

2treks

Thats alot of good information for me Bud and Scott. I sure do thank you.
CTT
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
~ Francis Chan


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