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Axis Traditionals Have Arrived!!!!

Started by Thare1774, December 04, 2012, 02:48:00 PM

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Thare1774

@Floodman- smaller diameter shaft + big broadhead and big hole = less surface area contacting the animal = less drag and deeper penetration.

Bowwild

I don't know if it matters at all but...

The live tissue arrows penetrate are elastic.  The skin, muscle, and organs the broadhead penetrates close behind the head as it passes. It would seem to me the smaller diameter shaft provides less surface area for the generation of friction.

I'm shooting just under 50# draw weight at my 26" draw.  I want to milk all I can get from my equipment.  All reasons I also shoot well-tuned arrows, at less than 20 yards, at nearly broadside unalert deer.

floodman

Wow..bows shooting 160-180  fps how much drag really...,shoot a deer with a pass thru,1/32 of a second to exit,not sure there is enough time for drag on a fleshy animal,..24 years of this and I can tell you,shafts don't drag in real hunting situation where there is broadheads invoved,and doing all the modification on a HIT system is just for pure enjoyment,became it is a poor system.just get 5/16 shafts with a strong insert that has a lip and be done with it,the wind factor effect probably less than 10% treestand hunting,but its all the tinkering that makes it fun..

floodman

Wow..bows shooting 160-180  fps how much drag really...,shoot a deer with a pass thru,1/32 of a second to exit,not sure there is enough time for drag on a fleshy animal,..24 years of this and I can tell you,shafts don't drag in real hunting situation where there is broadheads invoved,and doing all the modification on a HIT system is just for pure enjoyment,became it is a poor system.just get 5/16 shafts with a strong insert that has a lip and be done with it,the wind factor effect probably less than 10% treestand hunting,but its all the tinkering that makes it fun..

bigbadjon

I don't really know how much difference it makes on an animal but I certainly get more penetration from the skinny arrows in my targets. I'm also using FMJs rather than pure carbons. I also find the smaller diameter shaft to be easier to aim.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

ALDO

Fox,
To answer your question I have been using low temp hobby glue for a few years now.  I like it, try not to add heat to the shaft only the insert.  I have a 8-32 hex head that I use to bottom in the insert and head the hex head, the insert will release.  I use a vice grip on the hex head screw.  Works for me.
ALDO
"One does not hunt in order to kill; on the contrary, one kills in order to have hunted."
    Jose Ortega y Gasset

bowhuntingrn

I've been using the blue Bohning cool flex low temp hot melt with 50 grain hit inserts installed in FMJ's and it seems to be working well. Like Aldo said above, just don't apply heat directly to the shaft. I also drop mine tip first into a glass of water (cold from tap) as soon as I get the insert seated per the instructions on the glue. BTW Thare...that insert/outsert is a great idea, may be looking to try that myself.    :thumbsup:
"The first 40 years of childhood are always the hardest"

FOX SQUIRREL NUTS

good deal fellas i'm going to try it.  i have been using it on regular carbons with great success.  pretty sure it will work excellent on axis shafts.

Bill Carlsen

Thare: I was really thinking out loud when I posted. I used to shoot  CX and played a bit with Arrow Dynamics. I found that they all "survived" stump shooting better after being footed. It seems to me that wherever a metal insert meets a carbon shaft there are going to be failures unless you are shooting very light weight bows into very soft targets. I still think footing these inserts will be beneficial.
The best things in life....aren't things!

bucksakemmer

You might want to try the Goldtip accutuff insert/outsert looks like the same thing if you cant find the cx

Thare1774

@Floodman- I have to disagree with you. Just because the arrow passes fast doesn't mean the impact and travel through the animal doesn't create drag, it absolutely does. Aside from the science behind it, there have been many tests done that prove a thinner arrow, properly tuned with a nice sharp head penetrates better than 5/16"+ shafts. I'm not saying a thinner arrow is a better arrow for all situations. But you cant deny the science of objects in motion, arrows are not an exception to these scientific laws.

floodman

Just today I used the 7 steps  of Scientific Problem Solving,Formed the Hypothesis and Communicated resuts,And I counted how many white stripes vs Black stipes a Zebra has on his ass,The results you are talking about is scientific truth,But so Minimum,that people don't need to swith because of Drag that would take a triefector Meter to determine,also strip them feathers off,that Drag will kill you every time...just havin Fun,My Phd never made me a dime but I still like to throw it around ,it cost me a lot of bows to pay off the 9 years off College...Yall have a Very Merry Christmas...Flood

Thare1774

Well Floodman, congrats on your PHD. But it really is not an argument, thinner shaft, tuned well, with a nice sharp broadhead does penetrate better than its 5/16" equivalent. Feathers don't make as difference in penetration, once the feathers are touching the animal the damage is done, I know you said you were kidding  ;) .

jax

Yea some guys just like to pay. I use the hit inserts that come with the arrow and shoot through everything . I don't mess with all that weight and stuff

Orion

Hmmmmmmm.  I'm mostly a woody shooter.  Have been for more than 50 years.  However, have been experimenting with some Axis shafts for the last year or so.  I've found them to be very tough, and for my purposes, they don't need a footing of any kind.  I do a lot of target and stump shooting and hunting with 50-56# ACSx bows. In a few instances I have bounced these shafts off of trees straight back at me with no damage.  Of course, I've had a few glancing impacts as well without damage.

Seems there are a couple of things that one can do to reduce the probability of the insert/arrow shoulder being driven back into the shaft.  First is to make sure the end of the shaft is perfectly square.  Any high spots concentrate the frontal impact pressure into a small area, which would be the first to go.  Second is to solidly glue the insert itself so it becomes one with the shaft.  Epoxy is more likely to do that than the hot melt glues.  That being said,  I'm using hot melt on 100 grain brass inserts, and I still find the arrows tough as nails.  I think the slightly thicker wall on the Axis shafts vis-a-vis a 5/16 inch shaft contributes to its strength as well.

Long story short, these shafts as they come out of the box are far stronger than anything else I've ever shot. I haven't seen the need to reinforce them anywhere.

floodman

Yea I was just messing with you fella,my Phd is Post Hole Diggers..from the skool of hard knocks..take care my pals...Floodman

LimBender

Thanks for the idea, may look into these arras in the spring. Looking for something lighter to load up front.
>>>---TGMM Family of the Bow--->

Shoot some Zippers and a Bear.


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