Woodies more forgiving?

[Rick Richard]

Forgot to mention Skinny string.

Woodies are 45 -50, 11/32, 28 inches and 125 up front with 3x5 fletching .

[David Mitchell]

Guess I'm just a lucky on this one--first carbon I ever shot was a GT Traditional 3555.  It's also the only carbon I've ever shot, believe it or not.  The dang things just shoot perfectly out of EVERY bow I own--longbow or curve.  And, no, I am not one of those who just accepts crummy arrow flight.  I want them running "hot, straight, and normal" as they say of torpedos (been reading Tom Clancy's SSN)    :D

[wingnut]

Rick,

Your carbon arrow has a spine of 64 pounds the way you have it set up and your woods are 45-50s

Add about 100 grains to the front and I bet you'll be happy with the results.

Mike

[bentpole]

Wingnut hit it on the head! The shorter a carbon arrow is the stiffer it gets.Out of my 50# Mohawk Longbows I can shoot 28" 35/55 Gold Tip Trads cut to 28"'s.I have a 27" draw length. HOWEVER I shoot 200 or 225  grain field points and 220 grain  Muzzy 4 blade Phantom broadheads out of my bows. This helps to weaken them enough to fly like darts.  Now, Woodies are a different story. Out of the same 3 bows I shoot 60/65# spined  POC's, Tapered Sitka Spruce, or Dougie Firs.Usually with 125 grain field points and broadheads up front Vince from  Mohawk shoots my same weight and shoots 65/70# spined woodies , but he also adds 160 grains to the front.I hope I helped. Just add some more weight up to front to your carbons and see the difference.

[Bjorn]

It is likely another preference thing-blonds vs brunettes. If you use a spine tester and grain scale the woodies you make can be as consistent as you want. I tried very hard to tune a set of high end carbons for my ACS CX-after six weeks decided it just was not my thing and went back to woods. A well tuned set up is just that-regardless of material, and will likely be about equally forgiving.

[snag]

Bjorn said it......  

[Jeff Strubberg]

That is a really stiff arrow for that bow.  I'm not surprised they don't work well for you.

[bigbadjon]

My woodies are spined to the pound and fly as well as carbons or aluminums... if kept straight. I believe they are all forgiving if properly tuned and straight but I don't believe the six pound variances sold in normal wood dozens is adequate.

[Overspined]

Bjorn, well said. I tried to like carbons....

Originally posted by pavan:
While it is possible to get carbons to be more consistent, it is easier to get a set of cedar shafts to be good shooters with less messing around. Some bows with specific poundages and draw will not tolerate an arrow that is too stiff. In those cases the wood shaft, because, as Howard Hill stated has more life in it, will clear the bow better and give a more accurate shot.  on the other hand if anything is off with the carbon shot arrow whether it is balance, spine or a soft shot on the shooters end will result in a wayward flying arrow. the thing about the common cedar arrow that one makes them selves is that for less money many can be made, allowing one to have a quiver full of arrows to play with. I have heard the argument that in the end the price is about the same, but frankly I don't believe it. I have perfectly good cedars that are 20 years old, and I make myself a bunch of cheap arrows every year that have one purpose, shoot at small game and stuff with the expectation that the arrow will either be broken or disappear. I would rather lose a cedar arrow in the woods than a carbon arrow and I get the opportunity to shoot a reasonably accurate shot more often. To reanswer your question,can a cedar shaft be more accurate than a carbon? In your particular case, obviously. do what works best for you.

Good reply here...I have had a fussy time or two with woodies in the past...but I want to shoot them.  Quiet and just cool.  I can however shoot some 2018s I have and they fly like laser beams...but I want to shoot wood and plan to do it exclusively.  

Now I just need to take the initiative and start building my own like I did back in the 70s.

[Roadkill]

I have a dozen carbons and they fly well enough out of three of my longbows. All three of those bows are different lengths and pull 52, 55 and 56   They were easy to tune to my go-to bow, the others were just lucky accidents.

That said I am addicted to wood and have mine arrow fletching down to 4 inch. Long may wood fly!

While I know that it is not for everyone or even every bow, but with a Hill style longbow a cedar arrow that is cut to a minimum length can be made to fly very accurately and is a constant reminder of ones draw length control and still fly. I part out shafts that are 5 pounds less spine and cut them net length for blunts and target points. My broadheads are cut so my maximum draw just touches the the back of the broadhead. with a little practice it comes natural. We are suppose to have reasonable control of our max draw and minimum draw anyway, might as well let the arrow length encourage it. I personally have seen many more guys trying to shoot arrows that are way too stiff than too light with any material. Like I said before it is easier to get an arrow light enough with a shorter draw without a lot of messing around or experimenting. I shoot carbons, metal and wood, I don't really see much difference in accuracy with any of them on perfect shots, but I have noticed that one of my set ups that uses an arrow that is two inches longer than normal are quicker to react to a hot or a dead release more than my other set ups.

[Rob DiStefano]

most folks don't use the proper spine carbon for their bow(s) or themselves.  that's why they have shooting/tuning issues.  most of that is the fault of the carbon shaft manufacturers, imho.  ever wonder why most carbon shafting is listed in 20# spine range increments?  because there is a vast difference 'tween carbon arrow static and dynamic spines - this is not true for woodies.

woodies are beautiful, organic missles that say "traditional bowhunting", but they are not as durable or consistent as the cheapest of carbons.

both shaft types will make up into proper killing sticks if you get the right ones (for your bows and you).

[Gator1]

I think Rob is right on.  I've had my share of carbons, and man if you cut'm a tad short, I've never had luck getting the spine back, short of adding a volkswagen to the front.

I believe with Wood you get what you get for spine, and it is a little less trial and error acheiving good flight...

[sagebrush]

I like shooting wood. It is not the easiest material to make arrows out of. But shooting traditional bows and arrows is not the easiest way to kill an animal. I just think it adds to the enjoyment factor. Gary

[Swamp Yankee]

Carbon shafts drive me nuts tuning and I gave up on them a long time ago.  Aluminum or wood just seem to be more forgiving and easier to tune for me.  YMMV

[Knawbone]

I have a 26 in. draw also, and I cant make ( for the cost) anything shoot for me as well as wood. My recurve will shoot most anything in reason. My long bows just shoot wood better. If im shooting good, my woodies will. Most people cant shoot good enough that it matters what type of arrow material you shoot. Howard Hill didn't shoot carbons or aluminum, would you want to shoot against him?