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Removing Inserts?

Started by jcarter, November 07, 2010, 08:52:00 AM

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jcarter

Anybody have a good method of removing inserts from Carbon Express Heritage Shafts!

They were installed with Goat Tuff glue and won't budge!

I have tried just about everything, any advise would be appreciated!
Black Widow PCH 47@28 in
Black Widow PLX 59#@28 in

PEARL DRUMS

Thats a tuffy. I use hot melt on mine. I know it breaks all the carbon rules but I dont mind. I dont have problems (knock on wood) and I can remove or move them easily. If gentle heat doesnt do it for you, I dont know what to say?

Huntschool

Have you tried boiling...  I mean 212 deg water?
Bruce A. Hering
Program Coordinator (retired)
Southeastern Illinois College
NSCA Level III Instructor
Black Widow Bows
AMM 761

ranger 3

Put a drill bit a little smaller than the shaft in the nock end and swing it towards the floor. Put a towel around the point so it don't go flying and hurt someone. It works
Black widow PLX 48@28
Black widow PSRX 48@28

B/W lvr

I second ranger 3's idea it definately works!!! Frank

SS Snuffer

ranger 3's idea works but pearl drums has it right I've used hot melt on MFX Classics and Axis arrows for years with no problem.
Chuck
Kodiak Mag 52" 41 lb.
Kota Kill-Um 60" 42 lb.
Kanati 58" 38 lb.
Black Hunter Longbow 60" 40 lb.

No Guts - No Story

MCNSC

Care to share how you use the hot melt? I have used it on GT shafts and prefere it to epoxy but have some pull out in 3d targets....suggestions.
"What was big was not the trout, but the chance. What was full was not my creel, but my memory"
Aldo Leopold

"It hasn't worked right since I fixed it" My friend Ken talking about his lawn mower

xtrema312

I have not used Goat Tuff glue, but have gotten inserts out using all kinds of other glue and epoxy with heat.  Put in a field tip and heat that.  You have to take care not to overdue it or get the flame on the carbon.  I usually hear a little sound a see a little smoke when the glue lets loose.  I then dunk it quick in water to cool down the shaft.  I have not harmed a shaft yet that I can tell.  If the drill bit doesn't work, give the heat a try.

I use hot melt for carbons.  The only shaft I have had problems with are the GT's.  For GT's I now just use a rat tail file to scuff up the inside real well, and then I clean it our with alcohol or acetone.  I have not lost an insert from a GT since I started doing this. From time to time I may get an insert that will move out a little after a hard hit on something, but a little heat and it is back in.
1 Timothy 4:4(NKJV)
For every creature of God is good, and nothing is to be refused if it is received with thanksgiving.

Firefly Long Bow  James 4:14
60" MOAB 54@29 James 1:17

Michigan Longbow Association

metsastaja

QuoteOriginally posted by ranger 3:
Put a drill bit a little smaller than the shaft in the nock end and swing it towards the floor. Put a towel around the point so it don't go flying and hurt someone. It works
Is the way I do it.
Les Heilakka
TGMM Family of the Bow  
Some times the uneventful nights are just as good if not better than the eventful ones

amar911

Xtrema312 says it all. My experiences pretty much duplicate his.

Allan
TGMM Family of the Bow

Ray Lyon

Ditto Extrema to for me. I'll just add that I use the special hot melt glue from Kustom King that Tim Cosgrove has used now for awhile. It's much softer than Ferrule-Tite.  I've used it on my Axis shafting and it's great.
Tradgang Charter Member #35

Bobby Urban

can someone better explain the drill bit technique? I am a bit slow and cannot get a mental picture of what you are doing?  Knock end, swing it towards the floor?  Just cannot see how this is helping get an insert out?  

Please give a little more detail or even a photo for the mentally challenged like myself.  Thanks

Bob Urban

Bud B.

The drill bit acts like a pin drive when you sling it towards the floor. Let the drill bit slide partially down the shaft and then swing or "whip" the shaft towards the floor to send the drill bit sliding thru the shaft with force. Put the bit in blunt side first. You can put tape on the arrow tip end to keep the insert from slinging out. Do it outside for safety if you prefer.
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

JamesV

Most hardware stores carry no threaded steel rod. Get a piece that will fit inside the shaft. I comes 2-3 foot long. Use it like a javalin, sling it down the shaft and knock the insert out. Like using the drill bit that has been mention but a lot heavyer..............James
Proud supporter of Catch a Dream Foundation
-----------------------------------
When you are having a bad day always remember: Everyone suffers at their own level.


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