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What type of glue?

Started by divecon10, October 09, 2010, 08:11:00 PM

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divecon10

Raiser has a crack in it, opens when strung. What type of glue would u use? A friend mentioned a locktite gel in another context?? Also as there is no concerned with the aesthetics in the finish, just its re functionality. Would a couple well placed screws help. Thanks
divecon

Buckeye Trad Hunter

I would try asking this on the bowyers bench forum.  They will probably be able to give you the best answer.

Bud B.

Post a photo if you can. It'll help the experts diagnose the potential. Of which I ain't one.   :D
TGMM Family of the Bow >>>>---------->

"You can learn more about deer hunting with a bow and arrow in a week, than a gun hunter might learn all his life." ----- Fred Bear

Steve Clandinin

Paul,Use G2 epoxy ,sold by Formulated distributers.the stuff is incredible.
Quote from Howard Hill.( Whenever he taught someone to shoot) "Son make up your mind right now if you want to target shoot or hunt as theres a world of differance between the two"

SEMO_HUNTER

I used the liquid form of Super glue to squeeze into the crack on mine, you want it to run down into it and penetrate. Then flex the bow limb a little bit to close it up and let dry that way.
Then I used Flax comb and Tite Bond II to wrap flax around the trouble area. I haven't had any problems with it since, no signs of limb failure.
I glue little bundles of flax fibers parallel on the limb over the crack about 1-2 inches beyond the problem area, smeared Tite Bond over it to glue it to the limb, then I took a longer bundle of flax and did a wrap around the limb over the fibers I glued down parallel, while smearing Tite Bond on it as I went. Then I put even more Tite Bond over the entire patch and let dry for an entire day or even two would be better before restringing.
Good Luck!
~SEMO~

Forgot to mention this.....take some medium grit sandpaper like 180 grit and rough up the area to be repaired before applying the flax and Tite Bond II and it will ahere much better.
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Whip

Deep penetrating super glue is what you would want in a crack.  On the advice of Bowdoc I use Loctite 420 which is an industrial grade of super glue that is formulated to penetrate deeply into cracks.  

It may take more than that though.  Screws would be a bit unsightly.  I just finished one where I drilled three holes in the riser and epoxied brass rods in the holes to try to stabilize the crack.  I rescessed the pins a bit and filled the holes so that they are hardly noticable.
PBS Regular Member
WTA Life Member
In the end, it is not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years. Abraham Lincoln.

Bjorn

Yup Loctite 420 will do it when nothing else can.

divecon10

Mike suggested better epoxies rather than resin or a thin superglue, past experiences with super glues have been ineffectual(super glue = aron alpha). But stop gap drilling may be beneficial as it was on the initial repair. I hear what u'r saying about the locktite 420.
Whip! Did those brass rods go across the crack at 90degrees or were they stop gap holes at the edges of the crack, an how deep did u put them? I may still recess small head course thread screws across and under the crack. I'll string it up to open, apply locktite and close up.
I will ask a friend to include the G2 in a care package for another try if required. This would be the better epoxies mentioned. Ta Steve!
Semo, this was what I was considering with glass mat. If the above don't work I think so. Do u have a pict of that repair u can send?

Thanks all for advice, here's the story with picts
The original crack commenced ¼" in from the plate, 1" in from the rear of the shelf, through the left quarter of the radius shield and extended about 1" down the throat.
Initially strung the bow to accentuate the crack then gouged out a small furrow 1/8 to ¼ deep at the raidiused shelf, placed in a few glass fibres and filled it in with resin and before it dryed, released the string to squeeze it up. Allowed to dry and smoothed it all back and further let it dry 4 days. It turned out surprisingly well.
It was then strung to the correct brace height of 7 ½". After 20 odd shots a small crack was again noticeable but only through the raidiused shelf, not extending the original length. I checked the brace height again and it had come in nearly 1/4", wow! I never imagined. Shot a few more times to see if the crack would expand but it remains thus.
I surmise that as the crack has extended no further the initial repair was somewhat correct and I am thinking perhaps I did not gouge deep enough in that shelf section!?


 
divecon


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