Cherry strength

rockkiller · June 02, 2026, 06:38:35 PM

It's been awhile since I have built a bow and I'm in the process to get one done again and since my proctologist retired ( Kenny M ) I have no one to pull my head out of my butt.
My question is can I use cherry for the riser on a Kenny M fhlb ? Is it a strong enough wood ? It will be about 45@28
Thanks for any help

Watsonjay · June 02, 2026, 06:51:50 PM

Im no expert but I would think so as a one piece at that poundage.

Kirkll · June 02, 2026, 09:18:09 PM

Quote from: rockkiller on June 02, 2026, 06:38:35 PMIt's been awhile since I have built a bow and I'm in the process to get one done again and since my proctologist retired ( Kenny M ) I have no one to pull my head out of my butt.
My question is can I use cherry for the riser on a Kenny M fhlb ? Is it a strong enough wood ? It will be about 45@25
Thanks for any help

There are different species of cherry wood. African Cherry makes an Excellent riser. but the stuff from fruit trees is a bit soft. I wouldn't do one solid piece of wood for your riser using fruit wood. Either use a footing, an I beam, or just rip the block in 2 pieces, flip the grain, and book match it. much stronger and more stable. .02 cents worth

Crooked Stic · June 03, 2026, 07:48:12 AM

I have used cherry in a one piece with no extra. But to be safer I would say X2 on what Mr, Kirk suggests.

Carpdaddy · June 03, 2026, 08:10:38 AM

I used it once on a light poundage takedown but it is soft wood and I would vote with Kirk on this one. It was good practice but I built another one using harder more dense wood.

kennym · June 03, 2026, 09:15:45 AM

It "feels" slightly better than walnut and would prob be OK but I'd not risk it when lamming it a little like Kirk said will reduce riser flex, and reduce chance of all your work lost...

Watsonjay · June 03, 2026, 10:06:13 AM

Quote from: Watsonjay on June 02, 2026, 06:51:50 PMIm no expert but I would think so as a one piece at that poundage.

See shows what I know. I will say Ive used just straight spectraply before which is really soft with no problem up to 45#. It seems to me the bamboo and glasson the back, in the middle of the riser, and the extra wood laminated on the belly of the riser adds a bit of strength, but I have never tried it over 45#

mmattockx · June 03, 2026, 10:25:04 AM

Quote from: Kirkll on June 02, 2026, 09:18:09 PMor just rip the block in 2 pieces, flip the grain, and book match it.

Kirk,

Can you explain this a bit more? I'm having a problem visualizing how you are book matching this after flipping the grain.

Thanks,
Mark

Kirkll · June 03, 2026, 02:43:47 PM

Its pretty easy to explain book matching. you rip the piece on a table saw, then open them like a book and glue them back together. it can create some cool looking effects.

for an example look at this book matched riser i just built from walnut for Rod Distefano.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/j3k393Pt6FjPR7296

Now if you are just splitting a riser block in two pieces and flipping one piece over. you will gain a lot of strength, but the grain will not match up perfectly. It still looks pretty cool though. If you are not doing a footing, or an I beam, just adding overlays to the back of the riser helps the strength a lot, and it caps any end grain run out with an S shaped riser.

With a radius back riser, a run linen phenolic over my limb pads and wrap it around the back to the other limb pad. This adds a huge amount of strength to a TD riser.

mmattockx · June 04, 2026, 10:54:01 AM

Quote from: Kirkll on June 03, 2026, 02:43:47 PMNow if you are just splitting a riser block in two pieces and flipping one piece over. you will gain a lot of strength, but the grain will not match up perfectly.

I know what book matching is in woodworking, it was the flipping one half of the riser over that I was wondering about. Makes sense now.

Mark