Grizzly "Dr. Ashby" grinding jig

[David M. Mathis]

Do you notice the twist of the blade when pulling them out of the target? Mike

[BobCo 1965]

It's very nice.

Just a question, are you at all concerned of overheating the steel?

[J-dog]

Ithink the Doc uses the same method and saya you have to cool the head every so often. I am sure you could easily overheat the metal. Neat rig though, right now besides typing on this puter I am sharpening some 160 grizzlies on a file. makes that jig look even prettier.

J

[SOS]

Mike,

there's a definite clockwise twist in the foam blocks.

I took it real easy with the sharpening.  Just a touch and pull back, etc.  I did a couple with file and took forever and uneven, thanks to my lack of skill.

If I didn't tell you earlier, be sure to flatten the back of the blade first before cutting the bevel....key to a sharp edge.

[BobCo 1965]

Originally posted by J-dog:
Ithink the Doc uses the same method and saya you have to cool the head every so often. I am sure you could easily overheat the metal. Neat rig though, right now besides typing on this puter I am sharpening some 160 grizzlies on a file. makes that jig look even prettier.

J

I agree. I also use a file and it takes forever.   :(

[Doug A]

Looks like another great way to sharpen these broadheads.

[Benny Nganabbarru]

Cool!

[PAINTER]

Nice jig, I have some old style Grizzlies I'll have to give it a try.  

I just bought some new Grizzlies, they come with the 25 degree grind and the Tanto tip.  It took me about 5 mins with a Smiths Sharpener to have the new ones shaving sharp.

[celticknot]

I made the same jig. What grit sand paper are you using I found 220grit at sears but am thinking about finding a body shop that might have upwards of 1000 for super sharp edge

[Rockyhud]

A while back I became a Grizzly convert and then ran into the "how do you sharpen 'em" problem like many others. I found this thread and thought this looks like one of, if not the best methods for getting the grind angle correct and consistent. The only problem was I don't have a belt/disk sander, however I do have an old 7" Craftsman table saw my father-in-law gave me several years back.

Using good ole American ingenuity I came up with a pretty good alternative to the sanding disk used in this thread. I bought a cheap plywood saw blade and used my angle grinder to grind off all the short little teeth, making it into a toothless, round metal disk. I then glued some 200 grit sandpaper disks to the sides, using gorilla glue smeared all over the surface. I laid the new sanding disk between a couple of flat steel plates I have to make sure it dried without any bubbles or bumps and to make sure it stayed put when spinning. After waiting a couple of days I cut out the center hole and installed the disk in place of my usual wood cutting blade and turned the saw on, standing to the side just in case the sandpaper disks didn't hold. I'm happy to report they did and have to this day.

If I had our camera here I'd take some pics so folks could get a better idea of this alternate sanding disk - my wife has it on a trip out of town. So, if anyone has wanted to use the sanding disk method for sharpening their single bevel broadheads and don't have a belt/disk sander but do have a table saw, I hope this might be of some help.

And lastly, thank you Stephen, for providing the excellent thread and photos for making it so much easier to get these broadheads  sharpened. I, like many others, tried using the metal file method and just couldn't get the end results I wanted. Now I can and do. The only thing I have left to do is use my paper wheel on my bench grinder motor to put the finishing touches on these broadheads and I'll have them "hunt ready".

[owlbait]

The great thing is the NEW Grizzly's have that angle all ready! No SINNING WHEELS OF SHARPENING MUTILATION needed.  :D  My KME broadhead sharpener has worked great so far and I know several others have found methods that work also. I only wish I had the talent or the security to work with the tools some of you guys work with.      

[ironmike]

i just rout a 2x2 to cradle the shaft, and shape one end to the pattern of the arrow tip, that way you can hold it firm and file the edge, all the work goes into the steel instead of being lost to vibration and such.the file doesn't recognize the wood,and you can really cut in good at any angle.

[awbowman]

We tradgangers are such innovative people!  Well done sir