Wood Arrow Question

Pac'em out · May 23, 2010, 11:42:00 PM

I just finished staining and lacquering some cedar shafts. I started cutting the nock tapers and noticed that the lacquer looks like it separates a little bit right at the cut edge. Anyone else experience this? Is there a better way of doing it? I'm using a 3 rivers pencil sharpener type taper tool. Should I cut the tapers before lacquering? Any info appreciated. Thanks!

Tim

Bjorn · May 23, 2010, 11:54:00 PM

Cut tapers first-before staining, laquering or dipping. Increasing dry up time may work on the ones you have already put finish on.

May 24, 2010, 12:04:00 AM

you may be forcing it a bit, or the finish could be piling up on the blade as it contacts the blade. i have done the same thing with thick or slower drying finish.

Pac'em out · May 24, 2010, 07:00:00 AM

They've been drying for three days, so I'll go ahead and give them a few more. Thanks for the info. If you cut the taper first, how do you clean them up to accept the nock/point after lacquering? Thanks.

Benny Nganabbarru · May 24, 2010, 07:02:00 AM

I grind the tapers first.

Benny Nganabbarru · May 24, 2010, 07:04:00 AM

I just glue straight over the varnish. No problems at all. I use Loctite 406 (a super glue) or 5-minute Araldyte (two-part epoxy resin).

Orion · May 24, 2010, 10:08:00 AM

What Bjorn says. If you don't cut the tapers before finishing, there is often a slight gap in the finish right at the juncture of the nock, wood or nock, point. If you don't touch this up later, water can get in and loosen the finish. Two weeks of steady rain about ruined half the arrows I took on a moose hunt to Alaska a few years back because of tiny gaps in the seal, primarily at the nocks.

One caveat. If you put on a lot of finish coats, say two dips of finish, plus two more coats of cap dip, too much finish builds up on the tapered nock ends, making it difficult to seat the nocks straight. I usually regrind the tapers after the first two dips, even though it does clog my sand paper. No problem, and no need to regrind/taper, if you use only two coats of finish.

Hot Hap · May 24, 2010, 11:16:00 AM

I'm with Orion, but after two coats I use a pencil type to take the finish off and then use the sandpaper and jig to retaper.
Hap

wixwood · May 24, 2010, 12:37:00 PM

Grind first. I thin the lacquer 2 parts L to 1 part thin. Lightly sand the shafts before dip to take sheen off and get good penetration. Scrape then re-sand the nocks when dry as nec. I use Cab Acrilic lacquer and in normal temps it is dry in a couple of hrs.

Pac'em out · May 24, 2010, 05:59:00 PM

Thank you, all. I'll cut my next batch first. What about the point end? Do you approach that the same?

Emerald Traditional · May 24, 2010, 10:25:00 PM

If you're using gasket lacquer, I would recommend you put it into a hand taper tool and give a few turns to clean up the point end. This will put less wear on the gasket. Otherwise its really not needed. You can Scotchbrite or steel wool between coats of lacquer to help subsequent coatings adhere better. Just remember that this will create heat, so give ample drying time between coatings. Hope this helps, Jeff.

Pac'em out · May 25, 2010, 12:09:00 AM

Yes, I'm using 3 rivers gasket lacquer. I'll give the steel wool a try too. So, do you think my problem is adherence related or should I also cut the tapers first? Thanks for the tip.

Emerald Traditional · May 25, 2010, 09:07:00 AM

Always do your nock taper first, as stated above. Scuffing up the arrow between coats will help to keep the lacquer from peeling. Give it time to dry between coats. If you try to dip 3 coats in a short period of time as some suggest, you'll peel some finish off from the heat of friction when you use the scotchbrite. If you're able, wait a day between coats. If you can still smell the previous coat, wait until there is no odor when you put it up to your nose. This will improve your finish quality. Is it necessary, no, but it will give you a better end product. Jeff

snag · May 25, 2010, 03:38:00 PM

I like to finish and then grind the tip tapers. It leaves me with fresh bare wood to glue to. If your jig for tip tapering is set up right you can get a nice clean edge for accepting the broadhead or field tip without leaving any exposed wood.

Pac'em out · May 25, 2010, 09:22:00 PM

Yeah, I'm using one of the pencil sharpener type taper tools. It leaves a small gap. I might upgrade to a jig and grinder one day. I have a grinder already. Anyone ever make their own taper jig?

magnus · May 25, 2010, 11:06:00 PM

There's a tutorial for one in the how too section I think.
Magnus

tkytrac · May 25, 2010, 11:18:00 PM

I have to agree w/ these fellas. Cut the noc taper before the finish. I do. The tapers go on before the stain or the finish. Just the way I do them. Never have a problem.

Emerald Traditional · May 26, 2010, 09:55:00 AM

Use of a grinder is not needed. If you grind a taper on before the lacquer is sufficiently dry, it will end up burning off more finish than you want, along with gumming up the disk on that grinder. If you pull the arrow through the gasket with the nock end up, you will have minimal build-up to deal with. Also, some style nocks, such as snap nocks, are going to leave a small gap regardless of what you use for tapering. Hope this helps, Jeff.

toddster · May 27, 2010, 09:16:00 AM

I will straighten, stain, seal, then do nock, then cut to length and taper point, then fletch. I have had issues with the hot melt keeping points on any other way.

Pac'em out · May 27, 2010, 03:00:00 PM

Toddster, what type taper tool do you use?