I've recently had the problem of having field points pop off while pulling arrows from targets.  I use ferrllite, but I got a little impatient and ran the hot points under water to speed the cooling process.  Tried letting the points air cool and haven't had the problem again.  I'm curious if it is the properties of the glue cause this or I just did a better job this time?  Maybe the instructions say to air dry, but I lost them a long time ago.  

Thanks

I am assuming that you are using wood shafts, if so here are the instructions.  "Heat Ferr-L-Tite over a flame allowing cement to drop onto portion of shaft which fits into the ferrule, point or broadhead.  Heat the metal until hot enough to  melt the Ferr-L-Tite.  Push ferrule or point onto shaft.  Using a cold, wet cloth hold in place until secure.  The bond is complete when thoroughly cool."  Hope this helps.

I am assuming that you are using wood shafts, if so here are the instructions.  "Heat Ferr-L-Tite over a flame allowing cement to drop onto portion of shaft which fits into the ferrule, point or broadhead.  Heat the metal until hot enough to  melt the Ferr-L-Tite.  Push ferrule or point onto shaft.  Using a cold, wet cloth hold in place until secure.  The bond is complete when thoroughly cool."  Hope this helps.

As we used to say in the army... "Preparation and planning prevents a piss poor performance"...

Score inside of field points with little dremmel grinder bit.  Clean out with meths on cotton bud until clean.  Score the taper "lightly" cross ways with needle file.  Apply hot melt to taper and shove on point as hard as you can.

I use Ferr-L-Tite as well for point installation on wood shafts and for inserts on Aluminum. I don't score the points but I do clean with Acetone very well with a Q-Tip. I also rotate the shaft while applying the point to ensure good coverage of the adhesive. I hold the point for a short time to allow the adhesive to start to set then dip into water to cool. The times that I have lost a tip were do to too little adhesive or not cleaning the tip very well.

Anyone try commercial glue gun sticks?

gorilla glue for carbon, and archery hot melt for aluminum/wood arrows.

I use white ferrel cement and heat up the end of the stick and put it on the end of the taper.Then heat up the head and put it on the taper and spin the arrow in the head(hold head with pliers and spin the shaft and let cool)this spreads the glue evenly and I have head the heads hit plywood and never come off when I pull them off.

I use the duel-temp glue sticks for my points on woodies.

Always used the Ferr-L-Tite with wood and aluminum. With aluminum it has been virtually trouble free and, as always, been a real plus for tweaking broadheads. With wood I heat the Ferr-L-Tite and rotate the taper in it, then warm the point, and then reheat the glue...I do not bring a cold part into the equation. The only "problem" I ever have is that the points might start coming off wood shafts a couple of years later, which is why I always give last year's broadheads a firm twist before putting them in my quiver. As soon as one or two fail I'll redo them all. Enjoy, Rick.

Ive built 5 dozen arrows since Sept 09,  for my own use.  All POC shafts.  For target and hunting.  Ive been using these out of 2 different recurves....45# @ 28" and 60# @ 28".  I used Duco cement for EVERYTHING on ALL these arrows!  Those alot more seasoned than I may call me crazy?  I dont know,  please do if that is the case.  Anyway,  aside from the coaxing straight of certain shafts and such,  these suckers amaze me with how good they cruise to the target! And I dont lose points!  Some of these have been shot so many times,  the fletches are like silk and shafts octagonal from slams and smears when grouping! (I shoot all year across the house!)  Cut your taper,  good!  Put your field point on,  spin it on a cheap $1 plastic cutting board.  When it spins true,  take a fine point sharpie and make a micro dot on the base of the point and the shaft.  Remove unglued point.  Cover the taper with Duco cement,  then put that point back on,  alligning the 2 dots.  Press pretty hard into that cutting board and wipe any slack glue clean with a paper towel.  Works great for me!

Forgot to mention....removal is also a breeze.  A little heat,  glue loosens and is workable to spin for tuning, removal, whatever.

the kimsha stick from 3rivers is the best a round i think i used to have the same problems with ferral tite and have had no problems with the new kimsha stick it works so much better

I've never used the glue that's actually marketed for points and such.

I have used "normal" superglue=WASTE
           "Gel"    superglue=WASTE
       5-min and 60-sec epoxy=Great!

I like the Kimsha Stick hot melt, too.  If I know the points aren't going to be changed, I'll use epoxy.

I used epoxy, now switched to J-B weld.  Both are heat reversable. And, the J-B weld is tough as nails.

I use the cheap hot melt on my target heads, because I change them out more often for blunts to go small game hunting or stumping, and have only lost them when I didn't clean the oil from the head before applying to shaft.

I use ferril tight on my braod heads because I noticed that it took more heat to loosen the glue than it seems to on the hot melt and I sometimes hunt in extremely warm weather and the broad heads are more expensive than targets or blunts and so is the ferril tight.

Anyone have any good/bad experience with gorilla glue to put on field points to shoot into 3D targets? The kind of gorilla glue where you  would apply water to wood shaft to dampen, then put glue on wood and press on point. I don't want the points pulling off during a 3D shoot. Does J-B weld have to be "mixed" like epoxy? thanks

 

I've used nothing but Ferr-L-Tite in the wood shafts. The only issue I've ever had was on a new set of field tips that I didn't clean out with acetone before using. The low melting point means you don't have to over heat your broadheads.