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Super Coat shaft sealer?? How to apply?

Started by John3, December 13, 2008, 12:40:00 PM

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John3

I've been ragging this sealer on my wood shafts and am not happy with the results.

To those who use Super Coat what is the best way to apply it to the shafts?

Thanks,

John III
"There is no excellence in Archery without great labor".  Maurice Thompson 1879

Professional Bowhunters Society--Regular Member
United Bowhunters of Missouri
Compton Life Member #333

Smallwood

dip the shaft full length in a long dip tube such as the ones sold by 3-rivers, etc.

ishiwannabe

You need to thin it out. I was told to thin it until it stopped dripping within 15 seconds....BIG difference and a great finish.
"I lost arrows and didnt even shoot at a rabbit" Charlie after the Island of Trees.
                        -Jamie

John3

Thank you for the help.. Which thinner should I use?

John III
"There is no excellence in Archery without great labor".  Maurice Thompson 1879

Professional Bowhunters Society--Regular Member
United Bowhunters of Missouri
Compton Life Member #333

Keefer

If the shaft sealer is made by Bohning I would use thier thinner only but maybe someone here has tried other brands but there use to be a product or thinner called M.E.K. Or something like that...I just know it had the same smell as the Bohning thinner and back in the mid 80's I use to have to thin paint with it to put on the Black and Decker hedge trimmer blades and we stocked this stuff in 55 gallon drums in a cool storage room....Very flammable and can knock you for a loop if you inhaled to much of it...

fillmorehd

Use Bohnings thinner.  I tried to thin their stuff once with MEK and it works but not as well.  Jamie I tied super coat but seem to get lots of bubbles no matter what I do. Has this happened to you?  Also do you put it on over another sealer?

ishiwannabe

No, a few bubbles, here and there, but I steel wooled in between coats, and that helped with that issue.
I devised a way to keep the sealer in my dip tube(old broom) using a rubber stopper, once it was in there for a few days, the bubble issue was almost gone. Slow entry and exit of the shaft also helped.
"I lost arrows and didnt even shoot at a rabbit" Charlie after the Island of Trees.
                        -Jamie

aromakr

Bubbles are caused by pouring the finish into your dip tube or stiring and not allowing them to dissipate before dipping. If the finish is too thick it will take a long time for that too happen. Thin the finish so 90% of it runs off the shaft very quickly. a 50/50 finish to thinner is usually NOT too much, yes it will take more coats, but you will get a much better finish in the end.
Bob
Man must "believe" in something!  I "believe" I will go hunting-----

John3

My new "big dipper" as well as the water based acrylic cresting paints came today from Bob at Whispering Winds.

I thinned my SC with Bohning thinner to about 50/50 with SUPERB results.. By far the best looking shafts I've ever made.

Thanks to all for the help..

John III
"There is no excellence in Archery without great labor".  Maurice Thompson 1879

Professional Bowhunters Society--Regular Member
United Bowhunters of Missouri
Compton Life Member #333

ishiwannabe

"I lost arrows and didnt even shoot at a rabbit" Charlie after the Island of Trees.
                        -Jamie

DGL

Is there any advantage to super coat, over pro fin? Is it harder?The pro fin I`ve tryed seems to be a little rubbery.After two weeks of drying. I used the gloss.   Thanks Dave

fillmorehd

Guys I got bubbles when the stuff had been thinned and had witting in the dip tube for a few days.  I have made probably 50 dozen cedars and never had it happen before.  I am wondering if it is old stock or something.

DGL


roper

I've used super coat for many years and yes you
need bonings thinner and I use it 3 to 1 with two
coats being plenty. allen

Hot Hap

Fillmorehd-Try being a little more gentle inserting and removing the shaft from the SC. I have had no problems with SC. Hap

fillmorehd

Hap   Thanks I will give it a try.  Dont remember how hard I plunged in the shaft.

CBH

You can get rid of the bubbles right after you dip the shaft by applying warm air. You can simply use your warm breath, or from a distance you can use a hair dryer or even a small propane torch. Just wave them very quickly across the bubbles and they'll pop. Using your own breath is most commonly used and even advertised on several types of epoxy clear coatings and paints.

fillmorehd

Chris  Thanks for passing that along I will give it a try.  I almost gave up on the stuff. Once the bubbles pop will the finish be smooth?

CBH

Some guys rig up a rotisserie to slowly rotate the shafts until dry. That gives a very nice smooth uniform coating. Other guys just dip the shafts then stand them up on end, but you have to keep swapping ends every now and then to keep the coating from running to one end! The rotisserie is by far the best.

huntwithastick

thin it approximately 1/3 - 2/3.  Once mixed give it awhile and the bubbles will dissipate on their own.  The early post suggesting a 15 second drip time is about right.  Let dry thouroughly and lightly buff w/0000 steel wool between coats.  Also, let dry very well if you're going to crest 'em.  I dip mine after I have tapered each end, which allows me to dip at least the first coat nock end first.  Subsequent coats I do point end first, which puts a little more weight up front.
Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery - Winston Churchill

"Tough Times Don't Last, Tough People Do"


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