I've been ragging this sealer on my wood shafts and am not happy with the results.

To those who use Super Coat what is the best way to apply it to the shafts?

Thanks,

John III

dip the shaft full length in a long dip tube such as the ones sold by 3-rivers, etc.

You need to thin it out. I was told to thin it until it stopped dripping within 15 seconds....BIG difference and a great finish.

Thank you for the help.. Which thinner should I use?

John III

If the shaft sealer is made by Bohning I would use thier thinner only but maybe someone here has tried other brands but there use to be a product or thinner called M.E.K. Or something like that...I just know it had the same smell as the Bohning thinner and back in the mid 80's I use to have to thin paint with it to put on the Black and Decker hedge trimmer blades and we stocked this stuff in 55 gallon drums in a cool storage room....Very flammable and can knock you for a loop if you inhaled to much of it...

Use Bohnings thinner.  I tried to thin their stuff once with MEK and it works but not as well.  Jamie I tied super coat but seem to get lots of bubbles no matter what I do. Has this happened to you?  Also do you put it on over another sealer?

No, a few bubbles, here and there, but I steel wooled in between coats, and that helped with that issue.
I devised a way to keep the sealer in my dip tube(old broom) using a rubber stopper, once it was in there for a few days, the bubble issue was almost gone. Slow entry and exit of the shaft also helped.

Bubbles are caused by pouring the finish into your dip tube or stiring and not allowing them to dissipate before dipping. If the finish is too thick it will take a long time for that too happen. Thin the finish so 90% of it runs off the shaft very quickly. a 50/50 finish to thinner is usually NOT too much, yes it will take more coats, but you will get a much better finish in the end.
Bob

My new "big dipper" as well as the water based acrylic cresting paints came today from Bob at Whispering Winds.

I thinned my SC with Bohning thinner to about 50/50 with SUPERB results.. By far the best looking shafts I've ever made.

Thanks to all for the help..

John III

Good to read!

Is there any advantage to super coat, over pro fin? Is it harder?The pro fin I`ve tryed seems to be a little rubbery.After two weeks of drying. I used the gloss.   Thanks Dave

Guys I got bubbles when the stuff had been thinned and had witting in the dip tube for a few days.  I have made probably 50 dozen cedars and never had it happen before.  I am wondering if it is old stock or something.

Aromakr?

I've used super coat for many years and yes you
need bonings thinner and I use it 3 to 1 with two
coats being plenty. allen

Fillmorehd-Try being a little more gentle inserting and removing the shaft from the SC. I have had no problems with SC. Hap

Hap   Thanks I will give it a try.  Dont remember how hard I plunged in the shaft.

You can get rid of the bubbles right after you dip the shaft by applying warm air. You can simply use your warm breath, or from a distance you can use a hair dryer or even a small propane torch. Just wave them very quickly across the bubbles and they'll pop. Using your own breath is most commonly used and even advertised on several types of epoxy clear coatings and paints.

Chris  Thanks for passing that along I will give it a try.  I almost gave up on the stuff. Once the bubbles pop will the finish be smooth?

Some guys rig up a rotisserie to slowly rotate the shafts until dry. That gives a very nice smooth uniform coating. Other guys just dip the shafts then stand them up on end, but you have to keep swapping ends every now and then to keep the coating from running to one end! The rotisserie is by far the best.

thin it approximately 1/3 - 2/3.  Once mixed give it awhile and the bubbles will dissipate on their own.  The early post suggesting a 15 second drip time is about right.  Let dry thouroughly and lightly buff w/0000 steel wool between coats.  Also, let dry very well if you're going to crest 'em.  I dip mine after I have tapered each end, which allows me to dip at least the first coat nock end first.  Subsequent coats I do point end first, which puts a little more weight up front.