I always see tuning questions show up here. I wrote this a few years ago for somebody in the form forum. I hope this helps and feel free to add any tuning suggestions that you may have.

-Start off with the bow at mid range recommended brace height.

-Check on 3 Rivers or Stu's arrow spine calculator for a starting point. Both are the same, and if fed the correct information they will be very close.

-Set nocking point higher than needed and tune for up and down arrow flight first using bare shaft tuning or paper tuning. If using bare shaft tuning, the bare shaft results must be compared to the fletched shaft (Adcock's Tuning). The Adcock tuning can be found at A&H web site under tuning. If your bare shaft hits below the fletched arrows the string nock needs to be lowered, if high raise nock point.

-Always use two string nock points. I like to tie on my string nocks, use a material that is a least the same size as your serving material. The same size or larger nock material will prevent your serving from spreading and causing damage to your string.

-After your up and down is set, it's time to fine tune your dynamic spine. Once again using Adcock's tuning... Right hand shooters, a weak spine will be shown by the bare shaft hitting to the right of the fletched arrow and a stiff spine will hit to the left of the fletched arrow. Shoot several groups to make sure your results are consistent.

-For a slightly stiff spine you can increase your point weight or increase your brace height (among other things).

-For a slightly weak spine you can decrease your point weight or decrease your brace height. For a weak dynamic spine you can also add an extra set of string silencers to your string. You can also add to the side plate (among other things).

-After bare shaft tuned I will weigh the field points and broadheads to make certain they are the same. I have always found that broadheads fly perfect after the bare shaft or paper tuning has been done correctly as long as the weigh the same (no matter how big).

-For wood arrows I do the same thing, except I use broadheads in the place of bare shafts. A wood bare shaft can and will break fairly easily while bare shaft testing. Make certain that your broadheads weigh the same as your field points.

Good luck and have fun with it. I have found that a perfectly tuned bow is far more forgiving. I personally hunt and target shoot with the same arrows. Personally I have found that ~10gpp and ~15% FOC works best for me. Good Luck!!!

YOUR MILAGE MAY VARY... THIS IS A SUMMARY OF WHAT I HAVE TESTED. I HAVE TESTED AND RE-TESTED EVERYTHING THAT I HAVE DOCUMENTED. THESE ARE DIRECT RESULTS OF MY TESTING NOT JUST WHAT I HAVE READ SOMEWHERE... YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY.  

Nice and easy.  Thanks.

Good write up, Ben!

Bisch

Ben,

I appreciate your post!  Thanks!  I have been wanting to try out the adcock method, but haven't broke down and tried it yet.

KISS System for arrow tuning. Thanks for the post!

QuoteOriginally posted by DanielB89:
Ben,

I appreciate your post!  Thanks!  I have been wanting to try out the adcock method, but haven't broke down and tried it yet.

I was hoping you would see this thread my friend. If I can help at all just let me know, I will be more than happy to do what I can.

Link to Adcock tuning.
Acsbows.com

Well done.

One little trick that I will add. You can fine tune your arrow spine by simply sliding your string silencers closer to or further away from the limb tips.

Moving them closer to the limb tips will tend to weaken your spine. Moving them closer to the center of the string will stiffen the spine. On some bows, moving them 1/2" will make a noticeable difference.

I checked a few old threads and I'm not alone.
As a righty shooter I untwist my string to move the arrow to the right and vice versa.

Otherwise the same..

Lou

QuoteOriginally posted by savage1:
I checked a few old threads and I'm not alone.
As a righty shooter I untwist my string to move the arrow to the right and vice versa.

Otherwise the same..

Lou

Yes Sir, the subject is always split down the middle... I edited the OP to state your mileage may vary. The subject could easily boil down to shooting styles, I don't know. Everything that I wrote in OP is a direct result of my shooting results.

I know that I don't know everything and I am just trying to help out fellow shooters get set-up.

 

QuoteOriginally posted by A.S.:
One little trick that I will add. You can fine tune your arrow spine by simply sliding your string silencers closer to or further away from the limb tips.

Moving them closer to the limb tips will tend to weaken your spine. Moving them closer to the center of the string will stiffen the spine. On some bows, moving them 1/2" will make a noticeable difference.

Thank you for bringing this GREAT point up!!!