Is it possible to use a Dremel to cut down wood arrow shafts to length? I use to use a miter box but found it splintered to much at the final cut . Any other suggestions is always appreciated

I know when I use one for my carbons I get it to spin on my spin tester,and you get a better cut. I think the same would be true for the wood,but i've never tried it.

I use a pipe cutter. Worlks great and no splinters.

QuoteOriginally posted by centaur:
I use a pipe cutter. Worlks great and no splinters.

Like one would use to trim down aluminum arrows?

If you use a miter box or a fret saw, cutting half way through and then turning the shaft a bit so that the last of the cut is within the shaft will eliminate splintering.

If you use a dremel tool, you will have a tough time making a square cut unless you make a cut that is about a quarter inch too long and then make the final cut square to the shaft.

Either method has its advantages. And both work quite well in my experience.

Never tried it, but my guess is it would be fine.
I get good cuts with a sharp knife, and touch up the end with sandpaper if needed. Points are all spinning true.

Getting a good taper is a little more touchy; I use hand held sharpeners. After cutting the taper, they are sometimes off a little on the spinner. I can usually get it even with a little more tapering, or else , again, I sand it just a touch where necessary.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/36/366e4f8b-8d45-463f-b893-8b169864e25c_400.jpg
This is what I use. Pipe cutter/tubing cutter.

I just use a bandsaw and spin the shaft by hand while cutting. Never had one splinter doing it this way.

I just use a fine tooth I think its a coping saw or one of the fine tooth japanese dozuki saws.

I've had the best results just using a utility knife and rolling the shaft under the blade. Once it's scored almost all the way through I just snap it off.
Cheap, fast, and way easy.

Guy

Yeah, wood is easy.  I wouldn't go to the trouble of setting up a dremel with a saw blade.  Just a coping saw with a fine blade or a japanese ( pull) saw with fine blade, or the utility knife as above.   Heck, get a really fine hack saw blade and tape over one half ( now a handle).  Use a fine blade that won't grab half the arrow.

Turn the shaft for the final cuts and take it easy.  
ChuckC

Before I got an arrow saw I did the same as Grey Taylor.  Still do unless I have a bunch to do at once.  Like he said: fast, cheap, easy.

Hey Cheyenne: Would a pipe cutter work on carbon shafts too?

QuoteOriginally posted by Grey Taylor:
I've had the best results just using a utility knife and rolling the shaft under the blade. Once it's scored almost all the way through I just snap it off.
Cheap, fast, and way easy.

Guy

This procedure works ok with cedar shafts, but i wouldn't recommend it for doug fir or spruce. a coping saw would work excellent, as will a fine tooth back saw, fret saw, or dove tail saw like the link below..... but scoring the wood with a sheet rock knife FIRST is the best way.....Doing this keeps the wood from splintering.  


The Dremel tool would work with a wood cutting blade, but not a fiber blade used for aluminum or carbon.... check these links out.   http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Saws-Blades/Saws-Pull/pull-saws-irwin-213104?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CjwKEAiAmqayBRDLgsfGiMmkxT0SJADHFUhPT-XhD3SyNR0tPP9d87hC1S8_x1Hr  Z-e5b214yAkjuhoCjk_w_wcB  

 http://www.amazon.com/SE-SS45HS-5-Piece-High-Speed-Mandrels/dp/B001J9MOU0/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1447695546&sr=8-13&keywords=dremel+saw+max+blades

I used to free hand with a dremel for years worked great.   Now ive built a cutoff using my dremel.   Cery simple and works extremely well!!!

QuoteOriginally posted by Kirkll:
 

QuoteOriginally posted by Grey Taylor:
I've had the best results just using a utility knife and rolling the shaft under the blade. Once it's scored almost all the way through I just snap it off.
Cheap, fast, and way easy.

Guy

This procedure works ok with cedar shafts, but i wouldn't recommend it for doug fir or spruce. a coping saw would work excellent, as will a fine tooth back saw, fret saw, or dove tail saw like the link below..... but scoring the wood with a sheet rock knife FIRST is the best way.....Doing this keeps the wood from splintering.   [/b]

Our experience varies.
I almost never use cedar, almost always use spruce, and occasionally use Douglas fir.
The score and snap has worked fine for me on all these.

Guy

I use mostly cedar, but I have used spruce, fir, chundoo/Canadian pine, etc.  

My experience still goes along with Grey's.

I recommend getting a good hand-held manual razor saw.  Zona or even an X-acto.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSSK3&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLH69&P=ML

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKZ02&P=7

use a pocket knife with your miter box. push the knife into the wood and keep spinning the shaft until you have cut all the way around, make sure the cut is nice and deep but it doesnt need to be all the way through. Then gently wiggle the two ends and it should break without splintering, Just clean up the edge and you are ready to taper.

I have cut about 4 dozen POC woodies this way and never had any trouble

Now, I most often use pruning shears . Go slow  and turn the shaft as you would rolling under the knife and then snap!