Why is my Duco turning yellow? I'm thinking it is not compatible with my finish on my arrows. Kind of burns me, I go through all the work and the glue looks like crap on the Fletch. I'm really considering going to all Bohning products. Does anyone else use there products, and are they worth the cost? I want to get a nice result from all the work, i have been tinkering around for 7 months with different products and I'm not satisfied yet. the set of shafts I'm working on now are fir and they have turned out the best of any i have done in the past except for the glue. I even tried Fletch tape and really don't care for it at this point, i like glue.

I've never had a problem with Bohning.  I use their paints and glue.  Haven't tried anything else, so I can't compare.

Stone Knife:
Are you sure the glue you are using is Duco? I've used it for 50+ years and never had it yellow. Other brands have that problem, like Everfast.

What are you crown dipping with? I don't see it as a compatability problem if its not orange peeling.
Bob

Yes the glue is Duco, i checked to make sure. I even used some fletchtite platinum on one arrow to try it and that yellowed also. This is what i used this time, fir shafting, yellow stain three rivers alcohol base( did the whole shaft) sealed the whole shaft with a marine grade varnish then after it dried i did the cap with Kilz sealer water base. Then spray painted the cap with krylon white, crested then sealed the whole works with spray on lacquer. The shafts look good but i think the stain is the culprit.

I use bohning for the most part, and the biggest issue is finding compatible stains and such. If you go all bohning, Im sure you would be happy with the results.

Me thinks you may need to let all those coatings cure longer before fletching. The solvent in the glue is probably drawing icky stuff out of what's underneath.

I use fletch tape. I place the feather in a spare straight clamp, held upside down in a makeshift fixture. I cut several pieces of tape (a little bit long) ahead of time with pointy embroidery scissors. The scissors also help hold one end of the tape as I position it on the feather base, rubbing it into place. I do up all the feathers before I put them on the arras. Just load them in a clamp, pick/peel the backing off (with the point of the scissors), then place the clamp in the jig. A very light press will set the feather in place, then you can remove the clamp. You can rub it down later if you want but you usually don't need to. A dab of glue at each end of the feather and you're done!

Tom, I had been wondering about letting things cure, so i let them this time. My stain sat a week, I let everything set for a week in between and still it bled through.

I agree with Tom...sounds like the solvent in the glue is leaching out something in a previous coating. Likely any glue with a similar solvent would do the same thing. I have used duco for a long time and never seen yellowing. We get into winter and lower temps and higher humidities and the coatings may take longer to cure??? just a guess

The marine varnish is what is causing the yellowing, the duco is melting it some and it turns yellow. If ya want to use duco use 70% oil based poly and 30% paint thinner to dip in. I can do a coat every 6 hours and let dry and than fletch with Duco, no yellowing. Shawn

I do have five shafts sitting there, I'm going to let them sit for a month, just to see.

Shawn i have had this problem before this is the first time i have used varnish, The other times i used water based poly.

I have used Bohning products for 20+ years. During that time I have tried a lot of other things that people said worked good. Not for me. I have always come back to the Bohning. Use all compatible stuff and the is no problem with anything. No discoloration, no separation, no moisture problems. You can't pull a feather off with a pliers.

Stoneknife:
If your staining under your crown dip, that is the problem. The Krylon spray you are using for the crown is a lacquer which uses a very hot solvent. That is cutting into the stain,then the Duco cement which is also a lacquer base is cutting into both bringing the color up from underneath, even if you over coat with something else it will cut through. Stain only that part of the shaft that will not be crowndipped. Regardless of how long you allow those shafts to dry you will still have the problem.
The Oil base varnish is not the problem. dnovo: Is correct in his statement, however you don't have to use all Bohning products to achieve compatability. Just don't use products with hot solvents over water or oil base products.

Try this, stain only the part of the shaft that will not have a crown dip, Then spray two, to three coats of your Krylon on the crown. Crest with waterbased paint and dip just the stained and crested part of the shaft with your oil based clear. Fletch directly to the krylon with Duco. Everything will be compatable.
Bob