Would like to get some input on the distance you guys stand from the target butt and what height you aim when bare shaft tuning? Not much for getting crazy with this but want to try and get it better. Thanks for the help.

Different distances...not much for getting crazy with it either

DDave

I start out pretty close. Usually get it ball parked in the basement at several feet then I go out to range and shoot whatever range you want.

First shot with a new bow I start about 10-15yds in case I am way off with my spine choice, quickly move back to 20 yds, eventually back to 25yds before switching to field point and broadhead. If I was good at 25yds then broadhead normally is right on. Shoot shoulder height.

QuoteOriginally posted by katman:
First shot with a new bow I start about 10-15yds in case I am way off with my spine choice, quickly move back to 20 yds, eventually back to 25yds before switching to field point and broadhead. If I was good at 25yds then broadhead normally is right on. Shoot shoulder height.

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But when you the field and broadhead make sure  both are fletched. Because broadhead without fletching you dont know where itll go. Can be dangerous.

First shot with any bow bare shaft I stand close enough the arrow wont hit the bow after the shot, but not much farther!  maybe MAYBE 5 steps!!!  I like a little fudge room in case the dam thing explodes!   (doug fir has a tendancy to do just this, something about its fiber structure and tensile strength it either snaps fairly clean or blows up like an m80).  Alum/carbon same diff, I don't care to have one come back and bite me.

The charts USUALLY get you close enough you don't destroy too many shafts, they are a good reference to start with.  Buy a group of shafts on either end for testing and give it heck.

I move back from there (starting at 5 or so steps from the target) and once upon a time was able to hold groups to 30 without feathers and maintain good arrow flight.  I couldn't shoot 40 to save my life with or without feathers, never have figured that mental block out.   We're talking targets here, not game!

ps, bare shaft tuning is not the end all.   You still need to shoot broadheads!   It seems to be a common thread or in conversations somewhere near hunting seasons about broadhead flight on a bow they thought was tuned.

Bareshafting is one step on the road to tuning a bow and yourself.

Start out very close, especially if you use woods.  Then work your way back.  

Have bare shafted wood arrows back to 50 yards and have even shot 3d with no fletch.  

It's amazing what having good tuning does.

I work out the spine on paper first-using a formula you can find here or on the internet-and then check on the spine tester.
Bareshafting for me is just to confirm what I already know, start out at 15-20 yards. My range at the house goes to 28 yards so that's the limit.
IMO bareshafting is not a good tool if you can't make your last shot beyond 20 yards; out of spine conditions don't show up when you are too close unless of course you are way off. I only shoot wood and frankly get more out of following the formula and spine tester.

Ok guys.... i'm not really big on spending a whole lot of time bare shafting, only to have to do more adjustments after i put broadheads on.

Could someone please tell me the advantages & disadvantages of this whole bare shaft madness routine?

I typically just bare shaft switching a few point weights out until i'm showing a tad bit weak at about 10 yards, then i fletch up my arrows and fine tune with broadheads.

What is the advantage of shooting longer distance with bare shafts vs the way i tune mine? I'm seriously interested.

Think of it this way...the farther you can do it, the finer point you've taken the tuning too.

I don't hunt past 30, I refuse to do it.  

But that doesn't mean I wont shoot targets, or just launch arrows to watch them fly.   That and the blasted 3d shoots regularly put out a target at god awful distances LOL!.

If you can get that kind of tuning at 10 yards, that's cool.   But generally what you find with distances is the minute imperfections in form/tuning you miss at 10 or 20 yards.  Take the fletchings off and it shows up immediately.

Kirk, you have your experience to draw on and are usually pretty close just choosing components so switching to broadheads early is easy for you. New shooters have to learn all this.

I see nothing wrong with getting close bareshaft at ten yards and then switching to broadheads for a hunter but some are field or 3D archers and want ultimate tune with field points.

The shaft has way too much forward speed, force, (whatever you choose to call it) for sideways forces to show up. Say you are overspined; well at 10 yds nothing shows up, at 15 all of a sudden your shaft starts to move to the left if you are a rightie. You might be amazed to see what an untuned shaft might do at 20 yds of which there is little evidence at 10. And after you fletched up all the sins are gone, and you may have a poorly tuned shaft if you stopped at 10 yds. Now if your fletching gets wet and you have a BH on it all comes back!               And that is the point.

IMO I start at 15 yards and if I am close to what I would call a close match on arrow spine move back to 20 and 25 yards.In my testing the further you move back in distance the more the weak or stiff impacts become and can be adjusted for accordingly. Now as Kirk brings up not all broadheads react the same nor do they plane the same verse field points, if your a field archer tune your bareshaft as close to a field point as possible then fletch [ I prefer slightly weak bareshaft]. Hunters may start with the same  bareshaft testing but end up way off with broadheads due to planing requiring other adj to brace height/shelve material/ nock height.
Not to get of topic but even paper tuning at 3 different distances it may be possible to get 3 different tears due to shaft paradox.
No right not wrong but what ever you have the most confidence in.