I can't get my wensel woodsmans razor blade sharp.  They have a decent edge but nothing great.

Would it be better if I hunted with some chisel tip 3 blade wasp razorblade heads that I use on my compound? or will the penetration of the woodsman cause the slicing action to occur anyway?

You need the cut on contact, the chisel point is not too good for traditional. I use a belt sander for my woodsmans.

If you don`t KNOW your Woodsmans are sharp enough, then you are better off with a head that you KNOW is.

If you are not sure, show your sharpened Woodsmans to someone who would.

Your better off with a head that's razor sharp and deadly accurate. Strive like hell to get those woodsmans sharp (sure someone'll post the Charlie Lamb tutorial vid), but if you can't get 'em sharp, then use the Wasps if they fly good out of your setup...

Here we go...


http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=000047

You can get the woodsmans sharp enough.  I start out with a rough flat file, then move to a finer one.  Hold the arrow with the mounted broadhead on it facing away. Use harder strokes at first then move to lighter strokes to where you're barely pushing the file across; I find it best to stroke sort of across two blades toward the front of the broadhead.  Rotate the arrow every few strokes to make the number of strokes per side even.  Once I feel that the edge is pretty fine with the file (the edge will feel rough), I pull the broadhead from front to back lightly across a piece of leather.  This will take the slightest bit of roughness off the blades and get them razor sharp.  

As far as the tip goes- I always knock off the needle tip and sharpen it at a chisel tip.  That really becomes a matter of opinion, but it has proven to work well for me.  Here's some pics:



Good luck!  Go kill something.

-Vig

In response to your question about using a head like the Wasp I would recommend that you use it. The original Muzzy broadhead was designed by John Mussachia, Sr. who shot traditional bows and a number of his staff use trad bows and the original Muzzy head. If the Wasp you are referring to has the Trocar tip like the Muzzy you should be fine. I think it is ethical and desireable to use a head you know is sharp even if some think it may not be "traditional".  Cut on contact has advantages but a dull cut on contact head is going to be riddled with problems you don't need. I know a lot of trad guys that like the NAP Thunderhead...so, go ahead and use the Wasp.

If you want send them to me ill get them sharp for you and send them back. Art

I prefer to use stones over files. I use files only if i need to remove a large amout of metal. Stones, in my experience, produce an edge that will last longer. I have some stingers that i killed a couple of deer with. They are still sharp enough to shave with, without any much touchup. Most i will do is a leather strop. prolly wont sharpen again till next season.

The thing I can't understand is that everyone is telling us to use a cut on contact tip and NOT use a "chisel tip " broadhead. Then they show you how to sharpen a WW and tell you to CUT the tip off. I have compared sharpened WW's with the modified tip to Tocar tips and IMHO the Trocar tips are much sharper. Go figure.  Brokenwing

I shoot Snuffers and Magnus two blades, and I easily get them hair shaving sharp with a G5 Sportman Sharpener and a few passes on a Tru-Angle leather strop. I see no reason a Woodsman can't be just as easily sharpened. Tim Finley gave me one to try out, I'll sharpen it tonight and advise how it comes out...

I think any tip type misunderstanding is due to semantics.

The trocar tip of a Muzzy or the later Wasp is a much different proposition than the "pencil" type tip of the early Wasps, which is the type I believe is being discouraged.

You can put a nasty cut on contact edge on those trocar type tips. I have a few 135 grain Wasps with the trocar tip, and I would not hesitate to shoot them or Muzzy's from my 50#-55# recurves.

On the same note, the chisel tip many of us put on our cut on contact fixed blade broadheads is another thing entirely. It's simply grinding the point of the tip back about 1/8" to a flat point, about the same as on a factory Bear Razorhead.  

The purpose is to prevent tip rollover on a bone hit and the broadheads's ability to penetrate is not affected by doing this...

This post of mine is not intended to start any rock throwing...but I have to know???
Why do you all buy and use a broadhead that you need a video, training class and special tools to get sharp?

JDS III

QuoteThis post of mine is not intended to start any rock throwing...but I have to know???
Why do you all buy and use a broadhead that you need a video, training class and special tools to get sharp?  

Putting a hair shaving edge on a cutting instrument is not inherent human knowledge, it is a skill that has to be learned.

Putting a hair shaving edge on a cutting instrument, by definition, requires some type of tool to hone the edge.

Putting a hair shaving edge on a cutting instrument by hand is a satisfying task.  Personally, I think it adds to the hunting experience to use broadheads I sharpen myself.
Much the same reason I develop and use my own handloads in my rifles rather than factory ammo.

in the long run and come to think of it, the short as well, fixed blade broadheads are considerably cheaper than replaceable blades.

Also, you send a bent or broken Magnus back, you get a new one in return due to their lifetime garantee.  I'm unaware of  ANY replaceable blade broadhead with this blanket  garantee.

Any other questions?       :D

You could use razorcaps if you want a three blade cut -on-contact head until you get the hang of sharpening the woodsmans. fwiw

I have always used Muzzy heads with my recurves and they do great and have taken a bunch of animals with them.  My favorite is our 125gr 4bl!  I do sharpen the trocar tip and I believe it helps, but really how much more do you need then your arrow buried in the dirt after going thru the animal?  Plus I know they are sharp when I shoot and if I miss or need a sharp head again, it is a simple process of just changing out the blades and I am back in business.  I have taken several deer and hogs with our Phantoms and they work great, but I am just not into sharpening heads all the time, I would rather be hunting.  Mark