I have been making arrows for years now and all I ever dip them in is gasket lacquer. Ya all know how stinky that material is and Momma gets a little upset when I make arrows in the basement in the winter. Not to mention the buzz I get.

My question is, has anyone used other materials in your dip tubes? I use the rubber gasket lid with the holes in it to dip my arrows in the tube. I was wondering what finish others have used and how long it takes each coat to dry before coating again.

Hi Roy,

I have been using Helmsman Spar urethane in my dip tubes with the gasket.  The fumes do not seem as bad to me and the gasket keeps them contained to an extent.  If I am dipping a dozen I can start the second coat on #1 as soon as I hang up #12 from the first dip.  4 or more coats on maple shafts seems to work well.  I try to put 6 or more on ash because of the open grain.

Thanks Duane..

Does anyone use a water based polyurethane to seal your arrows?   Any pros or cons?  thanks, Bret

Not sure about the polyurethane, but all I use on mine is spar varnish. Depending on what I have on the bench for flyrods, I either dip the shafts in spar thinned 10%, or use a turkey baster and flood them with spar thinned 40%. Either way, I hang them in my rod drying cabinet for a day or so, then a quick rub down with 3M Finesse-It to knock the shine down some. It's made for outdoor marine use and is the only finish I'll use on my bamboo flyrods.

Kevin

I have been using Minwax Polyacrylic for several years now with very good results.  I do not use a gasket on my dip tube.  I let them dry a day or so before putting on a second coat.  Duco cement works great for keeping the feathers and nocks on.

Water based 'Raptor dip' from  www.raptorarchery.com
zero smell and biodegradable too!

I also been using the miniwax polyacrylic and have never had a problem. I also as a sure sign of spring, dip a doz shafts and hang on the outside line for a day and then give them a 2nd coat. I have gone as many as 4 coats but it seems to me that 3 is just the right amount and will last years without a problem. I found a old arrow that I had lost 4 years ago and it still was as good as the day I finished giving it a cap dip of yellow over the poly...the feather had been eaten off of course or weathered off..I also had to change to the water based poly due to my wife had all kinds of problems with the fume of the old brand.

I have never dipped arrows without the rubber gasket on top of the dip tube, so I assume all the sealer just runs off evenly when hung up to dry? Do you thin the material in the dip tube a little? Thanks, Roy

I have used MinWax Poly Finish since I started making arrows. Just wait until it gets COMPLETELY Dry, and use some Turtle Wax, or Johnsons Past Wax, rub it in there until it practically Slides out of the Rag! Just my 2 Cents.

I have used water based poly with good results - No thining just straight out of the can.  It is thick and there will be some puddling on the floor below your arrows no matter how long you let them drip off into the tube but one coat is pretty much all you need.  The only down side I have found is they gum up a bit when shot into foam.  Heat and friction I guess.

Bob Urban

I have used Bohning paint in  tha dip tube with the gasket and it works good but it takes me about 10 coats of paint (yellow) to cover real good and they come out real nice.I have also used water base poly at times with the same results as Bobby Urban  :D    :D    :D

I use the minwax poly as well, but man it is way too thick out of the can, I use 30% thinner and 70% poly, this allows it to run off way smoother and I light sand between coats. I put 3 coats on each shaft. I have had arrows sit out after missing a critter from Oct. to April when I found them and they were still shootable. Shawn

When I was making cedar arrows I used water based poly. I dipped them but without a gasket. I have thinned it a bit with water. The water based poly does run off for a good even coat, and no smell. I have never had any adverse effects from the water based poly. I am still shooting some of those arrows after 4 or 5 years and they are still in good shape. I have never re-dipped any of my arrows but I wouldn't hesitate to do so if it were necessary.   Pat

Bought Helmsman Spar urethane today. Drained the dip tube last night of the lacquer, it was like paste the last 12 inches of the bottom of the tube. Filled the tube with lacquer thinner for the night. Today it was still like paste, ran a shaft into it to free it up. Dumped it out and it turned to a white liquid, all over me and the driveway.. Good thing I missed Mommas new car or I'd be sleeping in the barn tonight.

Well I am learning. I never dipped arrows without the rubber gasket on top of the dip tube, and all I ever used was Gasket Lacquer. But tonight I gave it a try. Before with the Gasket Lacquer, after 3 coats I could see a shine coming on. Tonight with the Spar finish, there was very little shine after 4 coats using the rubber speed gasket, and it was tacky, unlike the Gasket Lacquer. So I thought what the heck, the Spar is way thinner than the Gasket Lacquer ever was. So I gave it a shot.
First I drilled a hole in the end of the shaft for a wire to hold it, that was a mistake. The saw dust stuck to the tacky Spar. So then I thought about these little clamps I had. Then I needed a place to hang them after dipped. That all came together quickly and the first dip of the shafts without the rubber gasket left a really nice thick coat, which did run off and leave a nice heavy coat. I am going to let the arrows hang till tomorrow night and dip again without the rubber gasket on the tube. I guess old dogs can learn new tricks:) This process will add another day of working on the arrows, but the Spar is no where as stinky as the Gasket Lacquer. In the 2nd and 3rd pictures from the bottom, are the shafts dipped with the rubber gasket after 4 coats. Hardly any shine. Not that I am looking for shiny arrows, but rather for a good seal of the woddies. pictures  

   
   

   

   

     

I hope it works to your satisfaction Roy.

Will they be ready for the 29th or will you put them through a doe before then?

Roy,

you might want to give the water-based poly a try sometime. I've used it indoors with no complaints from my wife, it drys very quickly and is thinner out of the can than the other stuff. I'll put on 5-6 coats with a couple swipes of 4/0 steel wool between each. I've tried it with and without the gasket and prefer not using it. I've got a little rig with binder clips and always hang the shaft point side down thinking I'll get a favorable FOC as the poly runs down and smooths out. I haven't tested my theory though.

The other way I like to seal them is to just wipe on 3 or 4 layers of Tru-Oil with the steel wool between coats. But it's more work than the water poly.

Forester, I am making these arrows for friends. I will hunt with my cane arrows this season. Cane just tickles me to death:) But I just love making wooden arrows.

Hackbow, thanks for the advice. I will give the water-based poly a try sometime.

Hit these shafts with 0000 steel wool tonight, then hit them with a tack rag, then wet down the floor to settle the dust, then dipped one last time. They came out great.. So I think my arrow routine from here on out will be, sand the bare shafts lightly with fine paper, then steel wool, then dip once and let dry 24 hours. Then steel wool again, tack rag, and dip the second time.