A couple of years back my wife using a Darton recurve that was 42 pounds at 28", she pulled to about 26&1/4". A large doe came behind her while she was sitting on a downed tree trunk, it passed by her at about 4 yards. As it was leaving it turned a bit giving her a shooting window, but just as she released the doe jumped. The arrow struck the right rear hip, cut a slot in the hip bone and continued all the way through and buried ferule deep low in the front left scapula. The arrow was a 420 grain tapered cedar, left wing fletched with a right wing 125 grain original Grizzly, file sharpened, simply filing the main bevel from heavy to light strokes, I flipped the head with one short stroke flat on the back, one light stroke on the main bevel, and then a single serration with the teeth of a Grizzly file from back to front on the flat side edge. That poor doe did not stand a chance with that hit. Not saying a thing against shaving sharp, most of the time I make her arrows shaving sharp. This time I merely wanted her to have a couple of extra arrows in case the birds came through. I did not expect her to shoot a deer with the older arrow. This was the way we used the Grizzly heads when they first came out. Most of our arrows were made right wing in those days, but a few were done with left wing feathers. I myself had switched to left wing bevel Hills with left wing arrows for my right hand longbows, but a few of hers were done with left wing fletching and right wing broadheads. I know that technically that it is wrong, but every deer hit with the miss matched combo put the deer down fast. This was the only time that one of them did not get a pass through, but then considering it was only a 37 or 38 pound bow at her draw and the arrow was only 420 grains and hip bone and the low end of the scapula got in the way, results are results.

A good "serrated" broadhead edge appears much like a well sharpened axe or hatchet edge.  "Serrated" is not visible as seperate teeth to the naked eye.  I believe the original poster, and several subsequent tips, are just referring to the process of feathering an edge and then clearing the feather with a single file pass against the prior passes.  It will still pop arm hair or slice a rubber band held with the slack just taken up lightly between thumb and inder finger (a great test for a proper edge)

Here you go.  All three heads below are file sharpened intially.  The Magnus II on the left is then honed on ceramic stones while the other two are "serrated" with the file.  You'd need an 10X loupe to spot it.  

   

QuoteOriginally posted by swampthing:
Would they harass you for a non-scalloped appearing, micro burred, edge on a smooth appearing beveled edge? That is just embarrassing.
This is illegal?  
How lazy are they? can't even research the effectiveness. What a bunch of lazy slugs.

as screwed up as this state is anymore they'd probably throw the book at you. If you don't remember I wanted to donate a bunch of rattler skins but the state informed me I'd be violating the law. That taught me to check and re check the regs about everything.  That's why I said I'd double check, the south dosn't seem to be near as screwed up as the west but it doesn't hurt to check.

Stone heads are an exception. Obsidian may be knappped to a sharper edge than is possible with steel.  Flint too?  

Kind of neat, really, how the oldest, natural  tools are still so effective.

Pavan, that's impressive penetration!

I know when the Grizzly heads were introduced, basically a file sharpened edge, wire and all, with a final backwards drag for serration was recommended, and demonstrated.  It's effective, but I have personally experienced a dramatic improvement in all aspects of blood trails, distance game travels,  and penetration once I figured out how to get them scary sharp.  Ashby's experiments have payed off for me.  I use diamond stones.

I do a serrated file edge with a round chainsaw file..filing from back to front.  Filing one side also like the grizzlys on all ny heads.  Heads blow through game and good blood trails.

I think one of the reasons steak knives are usually serrated is that they are usually used to cut meat on a porcelain plate. The serrations stay sharp because they don't contact the plate - just the high spots. I'm not sure that applies to shooting through a deer, even if it hits bone.

buy the DVD from Terry Green. Helped me alot

I have been using a 3/16" round Grobet file some this year.  On the Grizzly head sometimes it seems that I have used too much pressure, because the rough edge seems to want to roll over a bit more than I would like.  I use a stroke with a flat file pushed flat on the back side to pick that up and make it stand up a bit.

Pete, Pavan, and Charlie, thanks so much for the links! It shows exactly what I was trying to describe. I've never tried this method before, but I will now. It's an old time method and most interesting to me. I'm amazed I havn't heard more about it. It has to be old fashion for Harry to have used it Jonathan. Thanks to all for the interesting comments.