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New to Grizzlystiks

Started by stripe55, August 14, 2007, 12:11:00 AM

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stripe55

With only three different spine weights, how close can one expect to get to the arrow length I want? Am I thinking too "aluminum" here? I shoot 58#@28, can I just cut to 29.5 and be done with it, or is it more like tuning w/aluminum?  Ignorant I know, but these are too expensive for me to learn on.  Thanks for any and all.
"no sleep 'til 55"

Benny Nganabbarru

My advice is to get the length you want in the right size for you (I'd guess Grizzlystik Alaskan) and fletch it up and shoot it. Experiment with a heap of different weight field points, but my guess is that a number of different combinations will work for you, as they are very forgiving. I usually shoot my 920 grain Grizzlystik Safaris out of my 78lb Black Widow longbow. Just for fun, I decided half-an-hour ago to shoot one out of my 70lb Howard Hill longbow along with the usual woodies. That heavy arrow flew just fine (although for me the only arrow to hunt with from my HH is a woody)! All the best, Ben
TGMM - Family of the Bow

Inhimwelive

I agree with Ben they are very forgiving.. I shoot alaskans at your draw weight (58lb longbow) and they are cut at about 28.5 and have about 225 grains up front.. Ive shot them from a 64lb longbow and 38 lb recurve and got good flight from both..
In Him we live and move and have our being , make a joyful noise, sing unto the Lord, tell him of your love, dance before him...

Stick'n'String

I shoot Sitkas, at your same draw length and weight. They are bullets with a brass insert and 140 grain head.

O.L. Adcock

Great Shafts and about all I hunt with any more. Like the others said they are very forgiving and between aluminum and brass inserts, aluminum, brass, and steel BH adapters, then broadhead weights, you have lots of tuning flexability with more to come!  :)  I'd leave them a little long and load em up....O.L.
---Six NAA/FITA National and World flight records.----

Doc Nock

I learned from some smarter people than me that the amount of center shot/cut on your riser is more a tuning factor regarding spine weight than the actual draw weight of the bow.

I've shared my Griz AK test kit (3 fletched/3 bare) with others and they drew more weight, but had bows cut to 1/8" shy (longbows usually, some recurves) and ended up with my set up being too stiff...

On that same point, my Morrison is cut 3/16 PAST center cut and it is only 54# at 28" and shoots just close to weak while the big boys drawing 60# to 67# (same draw length) but having risers cut SHY of center, found my arrows STIFF.

I'd follow OL's webpage set up for testing bare shaft and start cutting, adding weight, etc. as needed to get perfect flight. FWIW
The words "Child" and "terminal illness" should never share the same sentence! Those who care-do, others question!

TGMM Family of the Bow

Sasquatch LB

stripe55

Thanks for the info guys, it's what I was hoping to hear and from some seasoned vets at that! This is why I visit this site.  Thanks again
"no sleep 'til 55"


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