I have a Thunderhorn longbow that I recently aquired. I shoot it very well and really like it! Have been trying to bare shaft tune it and get them perfect. I have my left and right (stiffness) right where I want it. I can not get rid of a high nock though. I can go to 90* and have a high nock, move nock up and correct it some but then move it farther up and gets worse. Even at 90* it is too high, or course go lower and it will really bounce off the shelf and make it worse. I have started at 1/2" above 90* and worjed down.  Even went almost an inch high just to see what happens.  Can't lose the nock high.  Any ideas?

The Thunderhorn is 57lbs. @ 28" and 60" long. My arrow is a gold tip 55/75 weighing 545 grains and is 29 1/2" long, spined just right. I shoot a 125 grain field tip/broadheads, a regular lightweight insert, and have 100 extra grains of gold Tip screw in weights up front for a total of 225 tip weight plus the insert. Without the weight I still get high nock, maybe just not quite as high. Still shoot well but seems to kick up when shot. I shoot split finger and use a calf hair tab. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

You said you recentily aquired! Does that mean the bow is used? I would guess without seeing the bow its the tiller of the bow, check it. Or the way you are gripping either the riser or the string. Get your bow hand as close to the shelf as possible and allow the bow to pivot on the fat part of the thumb and shoot split finger if your not now.
Bob

SBS, that is very common to have a "kick" you can't get rid of and it doesn't mean you have a problem at all. Fact is the best tuned equipment in the hands of the best shooters may or may not be able to get rid of a "kick". There is about a dozen things that can cause a "kick" and spine/nock point is only 2 of them. The rest you can't fix. Tune your bow with wide broadheads compared to field points or use the "planning" method instead of the "kick" method.....O.L.

Stickshooter2 -

Check the position of the nock on the shaft. It could be that the nock needs to be repositioned.

First, try shooting cock feather in. Then with the arrow on the string and looking at the arrow from the belly side of the bow, turn the nock to where the first hen feather to the left of the cock feather is vertically in line with the bowstring. This should give you plenty of clearance for the fletching and will more than likely take care of your problem.

If this works for you, you can thank the late Jack Howard for the advice.

Danny

I had the same problem trying to tune a recurve that I built.  I was shooting off the shelf, with the nock point between 90 degrees and 1" above 90, and was nock high.  I added a Bear Weatherest and the problem was immediately corrected.  My nock point is 9/16" above 90 degrees.  I spent hours trying to tune my bare shafts off the shelf, and got them flying perfect in 10 minutes after I installed the rest.  I use layers of double sided foam tape to build the arrow rest out from the riser if necessary.

Im with Lone Oak, I fought this problem on my Thermal put a rest on it and flew perfect. Just got a used super black hawk and its doing the same thing. I cant figure it out and I want to shoot off the shelf.

Lone Oak & Jager:
Like I said in my previous thread its the tiller!!! When you went to an elevated rest you in effect changed the tiller. Your bows were probably tillered for the elevated rest. When your fingers move up the string you bent the upper limb more than the bottom. What you are trying to achieve is haveing both limbs bend exactly the same when at full draw. that is controled by the way the limb bend at brace height and where you place your drawing fingers on the string. The lower you place your fingers on the string the more positive tiller needed, i.e. three under needs more positive tiller than split finger.
Bob

Mr Easton  told me years ago you need weight on the back he told me to cut the feather off an leave the quill. Your bear shaft should hit in the group with your fletched arrows.I was having trouble like you. An this was before the internet, So i just called easton. I never talked to the old man (no disrespect)It was his son He talked to me for  most of a hour about arrows an tuning.Great Guy Helped me a lot anyway give it a try ( some times i use tape as long as it weights the same as the fletch)

So is that bow built or tillered for 3 under?

Previous owner is not sure.  I'll call Duane and see if he can help and tell me what it is tillered for.  Thank you for the input so far gents!