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Aluminum prep for fletch?

Started by DXH, September 03, 2011, 10:56:00 PM

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DXH

I have some aluminum shafts on order. What all steps are required for adequate prep for fletching?
I may decide to crest these as well; still unsure. What other prep work would be required?
Ben Pearson Cougar 40#
PSE Black Hawk T/D 55#
Bamboo backed Osage Self bow 57#
Ivory Hunter 60#

Hud

Easton recommeded cleaning aluminum shafts with Ajax and water, it is not a detergent and works great. It works on bare aluminum, or any with an anodized/graphics finish. It will etch the shaft some. Paper towel and water, rinse and keep the fingers off.

I used a vinyl lacquer, for years, most use Bohning. You need to use their cresting paints if you use their lacquer for a crown dip. Also need to use their thinner. Careful not to mix other lacquers with Bohning without testing first. Fletching is easy with Platinum by Bohning or the old stuff - Fletch Tite. If you handle the fletch, the quill picks up dirt and oil from handling and can be cleaned with Acetone. Nail Polish Remover with Acetone will work to wipe the quill before applying the glue.
TGMM Family of the Bow

Night Wing

I just wipe the end of the aluminum shaft where the feathers are going to be fletched with acetone.
Blacktail TD Recurve: 66", 42# @ 30". Arrow: 32", 2212. PW: 75 Grains. AW: 421 Grains. GPP: 10.02
Blacktail TD Recurve: 66", 37# @ 30". Arrow: 32", 2212. PW: 75 Grains. AW: 421 Grains. GPP: 11.37

JRY309

I just wipe mine down with denatured alcohol,never had a feather fall off and I use Platinum fletch tite.

Jake Diebolt

I never used to use any prep. With the old fletch tite I never had any problems...with platinum my feathers fall off no matter how much prep I use.

The prep I use for fletch-tape is as follows:

-scrape any remaining glue or pieces of old feather off
-scuff a little with fine sand paper
-wipe down with alcohol (not rubbing aclohol, the denatured kind)

Night Wing

I fletch my aluminum shafts with Platinum and never have any problems with my feathers falling off.
Blacktail TD Recurve: 66", 42# @ 30". Arrow: 32", 2212. PW: 75 Grains. AW: 421 Grains. GPP: 10.02
Blacktail TD Recurve: 66", 37# @ 30". Arrow: 32", 2212. PW: 75 Grains. AW: 421 Grains. GPP: 11.37

vermonter1

I have always cleaned the fletch end of the shafts with laquer thinner and use old style Fletch-tite.  Have never had problems with this prep, still use it.

Archie

I soak in acetone to remove residue from prior fletchings.  Then I wipe it clean with a paper towel.  If it squeaks, I know it's clean enough.  (If they're new, I skip the acetone.)  Then I dip the end in Bohning clear fletching laquer.  I let it dry, and then glue my nocks and feathers on with fletch-tite.  Afterwards, I place a dab of glue on the front end of each feather.  I have not lost a feather on a single arrow for over 5 years.  They get scraped up, dirty, wet, and ragged, but they don't fall off.
Life is a whole lot easier when you just plow around the stump.

2006  64" Black Widow PMA
2009  66" Black Widow PLX
2023  56" Cascade Archery Whitetail Hawk
2023  52" Cascade Archery Golden Hawk Magnum

lpcjon2

I have cleaned my sons arrows with lighter fluid, and fletchtite hold great.
Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have ever made a
difference in the world, but the Marines don't have that problem.
—President Ronald Reagan

frank bullitt

Hud is right! I've used Comet, same as Ajax, for cleaning and a good rinse.

The key to a good prep is to remove all oils from the gluing surface.


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