Hi,

ive been experimenting with arrows lately because i wanted to build something special.
An arrow with high FOC, much weight and inexpensive;

After a lot of testing and bareshafting and glueing and cutting and...ive come up with this one:

Its an Easton Powerflight 300 shaft cut to 31,5";
Its got a 145 grain point, 100 grain insert and a 4x4" helical fletch.
The special thing about it is an 6" - 180 grain aluminium rod thats fitted inside the shaft behind the insert.

This adds a lot of weight and at the same time stiffens the arrow for being able to have so much point weight.
It took me a really long time finding the right length and material combination for the insert.

Well, the bareshafts and fletched shafts group together perfectly out to 30 yards. I havent done some broadhead planning but will do this week.

I would have thought the insert would need to be shorter and that this actual combination would be too stiff but ill trust my bareshafts.

They fly exceptionally well out of my Bob Lee TD LB (58#@my30";-1/16 cc) and also very good out of an old Noname straight LB (70#@my29,5"(different grip); +1/8cc);

Here they are with the components layed besides:

145 gr point - 100 gr brass insert - 180 grain/6" alum rod

     

They have 27,5% FOC and ap. 750 total and hit like a truck!

A BIG THANKS goes to DR.Ed Ashby and Rob DiStefano whome have helped me alot through their reports and in personal contact.

Axel

P.S. I thought id post this if someone is up to something else and could use the specs for a comparison or the like.

P.P.S. Didnt know if this is the right place to post this, if not, mods please move to whereever fitting, Sorry.

Thats a nice looking setup Axel.It's very simillar to mine.Easton FMJ 340 cut 29.5 inches-8.25 inch hardwood dowel behind a 100 gr brass insert & a 315 gr broadhead-with a 1.25 inch 2016 external foot.

It yeilds a 794.64 grain arrow with 28.81% EFOC and yes they do hit like a truck.

Axel, Looks like a great set-up. Bet they will fly well with broad heads also. Good Luck

Nice man.  Glad it all came together.  Makes all the setbacks worth it in the long run.

I really want to try  some of these internally-footed shafts, but want to avoid adding the "ticking" sound or noisiness some people found ...like found in this thread:  "The Perfect Arrow"

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=070146;p=8

Are there any more recent posts regarding this issue?

I had problems with the ticking sound also.I sold those arrows and am done with the internal footings.If you read the recent Ashby updates,it sounds like it may not be necessary on the real high 30%+ FOC arrows.

You can get more FOC with less weight by putting all the weight on the point end vs behind the insert.

Thanks for the reply, Jim!  I thought I had read the latest Ashby update, but perhaps I missed it.  Can you post a link to it?

I haven't shot for quite a while, but bought some CX Maxima 350's a while back.  They're light, and stiff, so my plan was to load up the front with weight (and footings - internal and external), and then tune from there:

1. 160 gr. modified Grizzly BH's
2. 75, 100, or 125 gr. steel BH adapters (I have options for tuning)
3. 100 gr. brass inserts
4. an inch or so of external aluminum footing
5. ??internal dowel footing - but if this isn't "needed" that would really save a lot of work!

That is the last update-  http://www.tradgang.com/ashby/2008update7.pdf

I gave up on the internal footings due to noise.When I used a shaft app. that weight,I needed 400 grs up front,including insert for bows 50-55#'s.I could get about 28% on those arrows.

I bet you will need the 125 gr adapters and maybe some lead up in the broadhead ferrule to get there,depending on your bow weight etc.

I have found that I can get the most weight by using 100 gr adapters which have a cavity,and filling the cavity and broadhead ferrule space with tungsten putty like fishermen use.it is 1.1 times as heavy as lead and easy to weigh out and fits any shape void.I only did it because one setup just needed that much weight in conjunction with the broadhead I used.

My externally footed arrows(1") have held up extremely well,despite some bad hits on hard stuff.I have been shooting them exclusively for 3 years.

I would want field points in the 275-325 gr weight range to test that setup for 50-55#'s.If your bow is heavier,less point weight.You can customize by using glue on points,steel adapters and lead shot.

Again, thanks Jim!

I DID read that latest update... I just missed the part (on page 4) that said:

"Though I have a preference for the Internal Footing, the use of a graduated set of External Footings has been shown to achieve the same flexional force distribution along the shaft, working equally well. You can find more information, along with photos, on these External Footings in postings by "Kingwouldbe", in the Ashby Forum at  www.tradbow.com."

Richie Nell also posted this type of thing about half-way down this page:
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=075403;p=3

I was going to mimic Richie's setup:  I have some old Truflite 2117 shafts, and Easton XX75 2317 shafts, but the two don't slide over each other - even with hefty sanding and drilling.   :(

SO... I am going to try a combination of:

1. 4" or 5" of UNtapered maple dowel, glued all the way along for an internal footing, behind the 100 gr. brass insert, and...
2. ~2" of 2117 tube for an external footing.

That way, I'll have a "graduated footing" - one inside, and one outside, and I'll hopefully avoid the "ticking" noise because I will not "taper" the dowel.

Oh, BTW... I am shooting the following:

...

Axel I am constantly amazed by your ingenuity and innovations.

Good work my friend!

I am always happy when I see anyone who loves working on arrows.

God bless,Mudd

PS: I "HATE" building arrows, so I don't!

I know this is an older post but I think guys that have been scared off by the "clicking" may be interested.

I have taken a very small amount of wool yarn that I use to manufacture carpet (it is 3 ply) and wrapped just one strand around the last .25 inch of the taper. It is not a super twist and actually only goes around about one full turn but terminates at the very end.  You want a fairly thin piece of yarn - just enough to dampen it when it contacts the side.  I just used some Elmers glue to attach it. This is a super easy and simple fix.

is the aluminium rod joined to the insert?

currently im messing with a setup that consists of a 30" 2117 with a 160grn internal footing (2" piece of 400 arrow with one insert and 3 40 gr 22 bullets all glued together) currently with a normal aluminum insert and 100gr point. im still playing around with it as i am still tuning...i know i will end up adding more weight for tuning but will post when i get a chance to shoot some more