They feel good in the hand too.

Quote from: BAbassangler on December 07, 2025, 02:17:11 PMI once thought that a fixed crawl was for me, but couldn't get past the noise or wrap my head around why you would take a bow out of tune after bareshafting.  I settled on tinkering with arrow weight and speed; and will try point on/gap for distances past my natural hold.
I thought maybe shooting split, and switching to 3 under as my fixed crawl, but ended up making it more complicated and always shot low.
So split it it, with as high of an anchor I can get. Keep at it, learning these skills is a marathon, not a sprint.

Consider learning to shoot "zen instinctive" for hunting.  It really does work quite well for most archers.  The hardest part is in trusting your inherent natural ability for aim, follow thru, and hitting the mark.  No different than any other free form aiming sport - football, basket ball, golf, soccer, darts, or just pitching a crumpled piece of paper into a waste basket from 15ft away.  As with any such free form aiming sport, FORM is paramount.

I've tried different hip quivers, always seems like a good idea. But, I always go back to a bow quiver.

I once thought that a fixed crawl was for me, but couldn't get past the noise or wrap my head around why you would take a bow out of tune after bareshafting.  I settled on tinkering with arrow weight and speed; and will try point on/gap for distances past my natural hold.
I thought maybe shooting split, and switching to 3 under as my fixed crawl, but ended up making it more complicated and always shot low.
So split it it, with as high of an anchor I can get. Keep at it, learning these skills is a marathon, not a sprint.

Thanks for the photo's, Phil. Nice looking grips to me!

For small game, I use a back quiver.  Sometimes use a back quiver for big game as well, but usually a bow quiver because I'm usually also carrying a back pack when hunting bigger game. 

Hmmm.  I don't know about a dish being standard.  Most ASL builders build a straight grip standard.  Maybe Jim prefers the dish.  Dunno.  Certainly ask when ordering. As Phil says, you can order the grip you want.   

Another vote for the 125 grain Magnus.  My 125 head for light #'s is the smaller, solid Stinger Buzz Cut.  One of my YT'ers loves Simmons but like them better on 40+.  Pretty sure Jerry Hill has a narrower 3:1 2 blade as well.

I've spun my head around bareshafting these light-weight bows off an on for a few years now. I've come to find that your bow will prefer what some call the 'natural tune' spine for THAT bow.  For a hunting arrow, between 200 and 250 up front is common; throw it on a 600 and see what happens.  When I got to where a spine needs more that 325'ish', they started to behave differently (more critical of form). I ended up having to run these long, and lost most of the increased FOC anyway with the benefit of a stiffer shaft and if hitting a desired weight, so be it, but finicky on draw and release.

I know most say to only bareshaft standing straight up with a vertical bow, but when I do this either I'm getting faked out by my sight or how the target pulls my arrow straighter after impact.  But, if I get my natural tune shaft, I can shoot it from a hunting stance also, whereas a heavily weighted stiff shaft shoots great upright, it doesn't work as well canted.

It must be standard. I bought both of my bows from what Jim had in stock. But i'm sure he could make whatever you want.