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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Sologuy on September 24, 2021, 03:29:40 PM
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I finally fired up the sander now that I made templates / holding fixtures, etc... But as I feared the drum having a hump in it to help belt track makes the riser not square...Im not sure what people are doing about this with similar rigs but this is entirely not acceptable results I got.
QUESTION... If I machine the idle roller Im sanding against flat.... will the belt still track due to hump on drive wheel ?
Id appreciate advice from those who have similar experience.... Im a lil stressed fellas
Thanks guys :banghead:
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Can you buy a new roller if you mess it up?
If yes you have nothing to loose and much to gain.
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Can you buy a new roller if you mess it up?
If yes you have nothing to loose and much to gain.
Not available....
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I tried to tell you to stick with Stic... :saywhat: :tongue:
My gut tells me that if you flatten that roller you could have problems maintaining your tracking... But I could be wrong and it may not make a difference... I flattened my drive roller 3" to 4" in the middle of my roller and have no issues...
Maybe someone will chime in that has flattened that roller...
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Hey Stic... what ya think??
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You should only need one radiused pulley. If your drive wheel has a belly, that should do the trick. I built a 2X72" belt grinder that has 4 pulleys, plus the drive wheel and only one pulley has a slight radius. It tracks fine. If you are worried about screwing it up, the smart thing to do would be to make a flat one to swap out. Or true it up by hand after using the current set-up. Or maybe sleeve the current one with some thin tubing and set screws.
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You should only need one radiused pulley. If your drive wheel has a belly, that should do the trick. I built a 2X72" belt grinder that has 4 pulleys, plus the drive wheel and only one pulley has a slight radius. It tracks fine. If you are worried about screwing it up, the smart thing to do would be to make a flat one to swap out. Or true it up by hand after using the current set-up. Or maybe sleeve the current one with some thin tubing and set screws.
Good idea..... I taped it up to take belly out...it vibrated a lil lol...but belly was gone and it tracked ok and sanded square... Im going to decide to leave on tape or mahine roller flat...... pondering lol :pray:
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My 6" x 80" Grizzly has a 1-1/2" flat roller.
The 4" driver roll is the radius roller.
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My 6" x 80" Grizzly has a 1-1/2" flat roller.
The 4" driver roll is the radius roller.
Wow, no kidding ? Its basically same as miy shop fox isn't it ? My idler roller is about 3" though
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The top of the roller tilts this way for tracking
(https://i.imgur.com/L6lS3bj.jpg)
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I have a 6x80 Grizzly. I had the middle 4" of the 6" Aluminum drive drum/wheel machined flat..I did buy a new one for a spare in case it did not work..no problems it works fine, still have the spare. Tracks as it should, remember when making jigs to only use the middle 4 inches that was machined flat.
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I have a 6x80 Grizzly. I had the middle 4" of the 6" Aluminum drive drum/wheel machined flat..I did buy a new one for a spare in case it did not work..no problems it works fine, still have the spare. Tracks as it should, remember when making jigs to only use the middle 4 inches that was machined flat.
Robert thanks for the tidbit... I may jneed to come visit you someday soon if ya dont mind n see that
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Maybe all three of us could get together... I am in Palm Bay FL... About three hours away...
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I have not run sanders or band saws since I was in a car wreck 5 years ago. I'm gonna try to get back in shop next spring.
On the Grizzly 6x80 you flatten the center 4 inches of the large aluminum drum above the electric motor because it dose not move like the adjustable "Idle Wheel".
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My idler is hard rubber.
Don't know what yours is.my advice would be use the drive drum because I don't think you will ever get the best results on the idler end.
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I made one years ago on the idler end. Its on a grizzly 6x80 . It works but it does have some good and bad.
Bad -- the roller and table are square. But the table tilts to track the belt.
Good -- it only cost about $5 to make
If I was to do it again I would put it on the other end.
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I found a shop picture from 6 or 7 years ago and cropped it to show the drum and rub coller. I remember Stic, Jess and a few others having them and I made a similar copy to what they were doing on their sanders. I have a Grizzly 6x80.
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Very good Robert.
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Thanks CS, You got me thru several bow building issues back in the day... :thumbsup:
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I found a shop picture from 6 or 7 years ago and cropped it to show the drum and rub coller. I remember Stic, Jess and a few others having them and I made a similar copy to what they were doing on their sanders. I have a Grizzly 6x80.
Wow, very nice !
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One on the other end.