2024 Bow Swap Progress Thread - Open

[Kirkll]

Well we made a bit more progress today..... Limbs are mounted and ready to grind  the width profile. they mounted up pretty straight, but not exact. i had to shift one pattern a bit to get my center line back on track.

I've added more photos to the build album link below on the process.     

Tomorrow we get the thrill of victory, or the agony of defeat when i put a string on it.... I'm not flexing these limbs until that epoxy cures over night. Standard procedure....    Kirk

BTW..... you'll notice if you look at the limb surface closely that they have a shine to them... when i grind my lams i always use 40 grit paper. With this bow not having any glass backing, i coated the outer lams with epoxy before wrapping them in plastic and putting them in the form. This fills the sanding marks level, and it comes out of the form as smooth as glass.....An epoxy backing perhaps?   ..... i use the same trick on my recurve hook overlays. i do them at  lay up and coat them with epoxy....You cannot even feel the overlay transition after sanding....

https://photos.app.goo.gl/65qB8TLhqTR4FJzB6

[Crooked Stic]

Yes sir excess will grind off. Rather see it squeeze out than not.

[kennym]

Yes sir excess will grind off. Rather see it squeeze out than not.

Yep, testing once I cut back on glue when I was told I was using too much glue because I had quite a squeeze out.  I made two sets of TD limbs. One pair lasted five years and the other five days.

Now I put all I want in there because you can't put it in later...

I have plastic wrap under the bow and another on top, so after I put the air in hose, I take a scrap and just wipe down on the line of glue. It stays between the two sheets of plastic and you can just tear most of it off. gotta be careful tho, stuff can be sharp!!

[Mad Max]

I never used all my EA-40 before it was out of date, so It's KennyM's  fault for not having the correct size for me.
I did nothing wrong

[kennym]

I never used all my EA-40 before it was out of date, so It's KennyM's  fault for not having the correct size for me.
I did nothing wrong

You just need to use more each time!! 

[Kirkll]

I never used all my EA-40 before it was out of date, so It's KennyM's  fault for not having the correct size for me.
I did nothing wrong

I go though about 4 gallons a year of EA 40, and it’s a lot more cost effective buying it by the gallon than the 6 quart kits.  Last year I bought empty caulking tubes and loaded up a dozen at a time. First attempt was a bit messy, but I finally got it down to a science.

The caulking tube method I would highly recommend even for smaller quantities. The longevity would be much longer not being exposed to air every time you open the can. The application for mixing is a thing of beauty too.  Two squeezes of the resin, and one on the hardener in a paper cup and you are good to go.

The only down side is that you need to keep the current tubes you are using above 60 degrees so it flows out of the caulking tube easily.

You can reuse the caulking tubes after they are empty, but getting the bottom back out is tricky without damaging it…. One refill per tube is all I do, then I buy more tubes. They are cheap, and it just takes all the waste or contamination out of the picture….  I’ve gone through 4 gallons using this method now, and it’s well worth the time and caulking tubes purchased.     Kirk

[Jon Lipovac]

Great idea.
We should put that in the Tips and Tricks thread.
I like to use Huntsmans epoxy and I think would be the ticket.
Thanks.

[jess stuart]

I was originally going to use colored glass.  Changed my mind going to go with clear.  Haven't  decided on riser or veneers yet.  So many choices.

[Crooked Stic]

Far right looks like a good riser piece. Veneers zebra or something with lighter grain even osage

[Noah70]

I’d like to go out on a limb and try something new - lets call it “Ask your Victim”?  I’m applying the outermost accent to the back of the riser, and am totally stuck between two choices, either would look great. The interior decorator/assistant was ambiguous.  Since this is in effect a “custom build”, why not ask the person who’s going to receive it?  So the two photo’s attached are the options, Rosewood or Maple Burl. The black and white have already been applied, so they are fixed. The same will apply to the belly below the grip heel.
Since none of you know if you are the victim, all should chime in.  Then when I get the real victims response, I’ll go with that.  Or maybe take the majority - democracy, you know?
Thanks in advance!!

[Noah70]

Sorry, pictures screwed up, again.

[Buemaker]

Maple burl me think.

[4 point]

I like the dark one

[Mad Max]

I like the dark one

Me too

[Kirkll]

Cool looking tip overlays Noah.

I like the dark overlays myself, but the stark white might be a bit much.... maybe a golder color instead of white, or something that matches the tip overlay color might look better.   Kirk

[Jon Lipovac]

Rosewood for sure.
BTW, no-one else needs to reply because that one is coming to Iowa……I hope!

[Kirkll]

Well......  We have fireworks this morning.... Damn shame too because it was bending nicely until she blew!

Here are a few photos and a little info fist.... I profiled it from 1.375" to about 3/4" at the tips for rough stringing purpose, and filed the temp tip notches in at 66" length.  The first brace was done with a long string and a 5" brace and she came out about 7/8" positive.

The tiller process was done with a palm sander and 80 grit paper, much like i tiller my glass bows. It actually took very little sanding belly and back, with a slight amount of trap to the belly to hit even tiller. here she is after i hit even tiller.

I had eased the edges using 80 & 150 grit both belly and back of the limbs before putting it on the tiller tree. See the link posted below for the video....   

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hJgqBU9sc5TwKNF59


Back to the drawing board....      I'd be interested to hear any feed back. i was a bit disappointed that this fossilized bamboo didn't hold up better..... from the looks of the break i'd say the back let go first. unfortunately i didn't film this with my high speed camera, i just used my phone. So i don't think i can slow it down enough to see a frame by frame of it coming apart.   I've added a bunch of pics of the broken limb in the album link below.  What do you think guys?   

https://photos.app.goo.gl/65qB8TLhqTR4FJzB6

[kennym]

Prob the camera angle but looked like the right limb was bending a little more off end of wedge.

I'm not much on all wood bows tho...

[Mad Max]

Prob the camera angle but looked like the right limb was bending a little more off end of wedge.

I'm not much on all wood bows tho...

Video was backwards but like kenny said bottom limb (right side of video).
That bamboo could be to much for the core.
I would say with all wood limbs to draw without holding, but you have to test it, so I don't know.

[Kirkll]

Prob the camera angle but looked like the right limb was bending a little more off end of wedge.

I'm not much on all wood bows tho...

Video was backwards but like kenny said bottom limb (right side of video).
That bamboo could be to much for the core.
I would say with all wood limbs to draw without holding, but you have to test it, so I don't know.

That was a rock hard maple core.... Look at the photos closely of the break itself...the nice clean break on the belly side was straight accross. That tells me the back came apart first and the belly snaped last.... I did a slower motion video with a bit of editing here, but i still cannot see it actually come apart. I may have to set up my high speed video camera and break the other limb to be sure....

here is that clip.... i've watched it a half dozen times and cannot really see it come apart....

https://youtu.be/-GDulwRiI94?si=QBjh-DCpYAD2BdyI