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Author Topic: Questions about 1095  (Read 560 times)

Offline TheBigRedArcher

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Questions about 1095
« on: March 25, 2020, 12:03:12 AM »
Ok. its been a long while since gotten in the garage to make a knife and with this whole Covid-19 thing going on I have a new found abundance of time to kill.

a while back I bought two pieces of 1095 .125x1.5x12. A buddy asked me to make him a neck knife and being as he is into the tactical side of things I finally sat down and drew out a kiridashi style neck knife (see pic).

I normally would send out my blades to a blade materials place in Houston but this time i think i want to do it myself. Something new to try.

So, my question is...beyond getting it hot enough, what do I use for quenching? I've done some looking and some guys say canola oil works ok then the next guy says it won't and to use a brine.

This is also my first go at 1095, I usually like to use D2.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

TBRA

Offline Handforged

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Re: Questions about 1095
« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2020, 12:38:56 AM »
15 minute soak at 1450 degrees, quench in mineral oil that has been preheated to about 100 degrees. Temper at 375 for about 2 hours.  I believe you could do it in canola as well, but honestly mineral oil is cheaper and is more effective. Get pure mineral oil from farm supply store.

I am sure if you ask three people you'll get four opinions but this has worked well for me.

Offline TheBigRedArcher

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Re: Questions about 1095
« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2020, 11:30:25 PM »
Ok. I purchased mineral oil from a local farm supply and bought fir brick to make a poor man's forge as I would call in. Going to head to HD in the morning and get the fixins for the burner. I'll keep yall posted.

Offline tippit

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Re: Questions about 1095
« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2020, 09:52:17 AM »
1095 has to quench faster compared to 5160, 1084, and even 52100.  It will certainly work fine with mineral oil (being a veterinarian) that's all I used to use as we always had that in stock.  But if you do a lot of 1095, a faster quench medium such as Parks 50 might serve you better.  It's also more expensive.  Just one of those other opinions...tippit 
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Offline Handforged

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Re: Questions about 1095
« Reply #4 on: March 26, 2020, 12:31:48 PM »
Ok. I purchased mineral oil from a local farm supply and bought fir brick to make a poor man's forge as I would call in. Going to head to HD in the morning and get the fixins for the burner. I'll keep yall posted.

What did you use to forge out the blade you made? Will it get hot enough to heat treat?

Offline TheBigRedArcher

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Re: Questions about 1095
« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2020, 01:23:02 PM »
Ok. I purchased mineral oil from a local farm supply and bought fir brick to make a poor man's forge as I would call in. Going to head to HD in the morning and get the fixins for the burner. I'll keep yall posted.

What did you use to forge out the blade you made? Will it get hot enough to heat treat?

I've been using a propane torch and working in very small sections.

I'll have my.poor mans forget built tomorrow and then I'll be able to get a full heating on the blade before quenching it.

Offline Handforged

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Re: Questions about 1095
« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2020, 04:24:36 PM »
Ok. I purchased mineral oil from a local farm supply and bought fir brick to make a poor man's forge as I would call in. Going to head to HD in the morning and get the fixins for the burner. I'll keep yall posted.

What did you use to forge out the blade you made? Will it get hot enough to heat treat?
I see, that should help but remember you're only looking to heat the cutting edge of your blade. The rest needs to remain softer. No larger than you're blade is, It shouldn't take much to get it to temperature. This is called differential heat treating. I would also recommend at least two thermocycles before quenching if you haven't already done it. Heat to critical, then let it cool to cold slowly. Then bring it back up to temp and quench. Then take it directly to the oven to temper it.

I've been using a propane torch and working in very small sections.

I'll have my.poor mans forget built tomorrow and then I'll be able to get a full heating on the blade before quenching it.

Offline TheBigRedArcher

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Re: Questions about 1095
« Reply #7 on: March 26, 2020, 05:12:16 PM »
I was only.planning on hitting the blade. I wanted to leave the handle and ring softer and was planning on thermocycling  it before quenching. Gonna make 3 more before going forward to the heat, 2 of which may land up being small drop points with the ring.

Really appreciate the advise.

TBRA

Offline TheBigRedArcher

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Re: Questions about 1095
« Reply #8 on: July 05, 2020, 11:00:32 PM »
Exactly how critical is the 15 minute soak at 1450deg? I clearly forgot and got the blades up to non magnetic then quenched them. I followed up the quenching with a sit I  the oven at 375deg for 2 hours and let them cool undisturbed till morning.

If the 15 minutes is critical is it too late to go back and try again?

TBRA

Online Wampus

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Re: Questions about 1095
« Reply #9 on: July 06, 2020, 11:32:29 AM »
I would think a blade that small wouldn't need a very long soak at all to get an even heat throughout.  It's probably fine as is if it hardened in the quench.  Large Bowies and choppers it's a good idea to soak at least 5 min at temp.

Offline TheBigRedArcher

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Re: Questions about 1095
« Reply #10 on: July 06, 2020, 11:59:38 AM »
Well. In that case, I'm leaving well enough alone. Cord wrapping the handle and making kydex neck sheaths is next.


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