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Strike plate depth/plunger depth

Started by snowplow, October 15, 2019, 01:04:07 PM

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snowplow

I'm trying out a new set of arrows. I need to go stiffer, and I'm thinking of spacing the strike plate out versus cutting them down at this point. Not sure if they'll be enough but I am considering this. I haven't read much about spacing the strike plate. I mean I know what it'll do but I just haven't heard much discussion on it. Are there any downsides to this? Is there any reason I should opt for cutting the arrow instead?

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bigbadjon

If you use your arrow to aim it will make you hit left of the target with a perfect tune. Other than that it will only make your arrow fly perfect.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

snowplow

Thanks Jon. If I'm understanding you correctly, if you have a perfect tune then adjust it out you'll hit left and it wouldn't necessarily be a perfect tune anymore. But if you do it as part of the tuning process you should still hit where you want correct? Like for instance if you're a little weak and hitting right of where you should and you add thickness to the strike plate to bring it back until you're perfect right?

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BAK

Trying to understand what your saying.  If your bare shaft is showing stiff, and hitting left, building your side plate out will only worsen the issue.  If the arrow is showing weak, and hitting right, then yes, building out the side plate will work just fine.

All my arrows are cut to the exact same length, I never ever tune with arrow length.  I want the same site picture regardless of what shaft I use.  Tuning is done with tip weight, and side plate, and brace height.
"May your blood trails be short and your drags all down hill."

snowplow

Yep that's what I'm saying thank you

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reddogge

Snowplow, what I do in setting up a bow is first adjust the strike plate so you have the right side of the arrow touching the left side of the string when viewed dead-on from the string side for a right hand shooter. Only then do I start tuning the arrow by playing with point weight, length, etc. I have found this method very reliable for me and I've used it on lots of bows, one-piece classics to modern ILFs, hunting bows to target bows. I have never gone too much beyond that setting either. I realize there are many ways to skin the cat but this is a fool proof method for me.

[attachment=1,msg2888951]
Traditional Bowhunters of Maryland
Heart of Maryland Bowhunters
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Mayberry Archers

snowplow

Hey thanks for the info. So if I'm hearing you correctly, the right side of the insert is in line with the string? Do you set it up this way regardless of barrel length? Or is that a variable as well?

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McDave

#7
You can see that Reddog's bow in the illustration is cut well past center, so it is possible to adjust the strike plate/plunger so that the inside of the tip of the arrow touches the centerline of the bow, which is ideal. Many bows are not cut to centershot, and many others are not cut much past centershot, so they can't be adjusted like Reddog's example. This is an example of a bow that I thought was cut past center, but it really isn't, so after seeing this, I removed a pad I had put on the strikeplate, which still didn't bring it back to Reddog's example.

[attachment=1,msg2888962]
TGMM Family of the Bow

Technology....the knack of arranging the world so that we don't have to experience it.

reddogge

Your photo piqued my interest McDave so I had to look at my Wes Wallace. Apparently, it is cut past center because with a thin strike plate the arrow still lines up with the right side of the arrow touching the left side of the string. On paper it is too stiff at .400 spine out of a 47# bow but it shoots beautifully. I suspect you have to use a weaker spined arrow out of your bow.

Traditional Bowhunters of Maryland
Heart of Maryland Bowhunters
NRA
Mayberry Archers

snowplow

Thanks guys. Wow that last bow is beautiful!

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bigbadjon

If the bow is in tune the arrow will correct and fly directly in line from the center of the bow. This is why making the strike plate thicker for tuning makes the archer, not the bow, shoot left. If you are aiming with the tip of the arrow you have moved your sight left of center.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

snowplow

Which is a downside correct? So it's preferable to not go further than you say correct?

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bigbadjon

It's not a downside as long as you know to compensate. I would rather the arrow be tuned and adjust my aim than the opposite.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

snowplow

Okay that makes sense I'm on board with that. I think that's all I've really experienced anyway. From shooting a self bow with basically no shelf to now shooting a recurve that isn't cut to center. on top of that I shoot or at least did shoot AD trad lite arrows which are pretty big in diameter so I was pointing pretty far left. I have always just canted until it didn't point left but pointed straight at the Target. And got it so hit there.

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stevem

If using a lighter point is an option, that should make the shaft act stiffer.
"What was big was not the fish, but the chance.  What was full was not the creel, but the memory" - Aldo Leopold   "Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"- Will Rogers

BAK

Reddogge, your picture shows the arrow on the "right" side of the center-line.  How does that work?  It's backwards.
"May your blood trails be short and your drags all down hill."

McDave

Quote from: BAK on October 18, 2019, 10:54:23 AM
Reddogge, your picture shows the arrow on the "right" side of the center-line.  How does that work?  It's backwards.

The arrow shaft is out of focus once it gets past the shelf, but it still looks like it is on the left side of the centerline to me.
TGMM Family of the Bow

Technology....the knack of arranging the world so that we don't have to experience it.

Bisch

Quote from: BAK on October 18, 2019, 10:54:23 AM
Reddogge, your picture shows the arrow on the "right" side of the center-line.  How does that work?  It's backwards.

I agree!!! The picture of the actual bow appears to be opposite of the drawing he posted above!!!!!

Bisch

BAK

Maybe I'm looking at the strike plate.
"May your blood trails be short and your drags all down hill."

Wheels2

I set centershot right down the middle and tune arrow.  My bows have good torsional stability so no need to set the arrow to left of string.
Currently working with new Border Covert Hunter Hex 9h limbs.  XX75 2216 is a tad weak and XX75 2219 is too stiff.  125 tips.  Unfortunately, the heaviest BH I have are 145 grain Razorheads.
I plan on trying to brig plate in to just under center for the XX75 2216s.
Super Curves.....
Covert Hunter Hex9h
Morrison Max 6 ILF
Mountain Muffler strings to keep them quiet
Shoot as much weight as you can with accuracy


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