Author Topic: Split glass at end?  (Read 808 times)

Offline Mike L.

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Re: Split glass at end?
« Reply #20 on: March 02, 2019, 06:50:41 AM »
Thinking of getting a 2hp with a separator and venting outside.  I looked at a lot of the 2 stage systems with the fine filters, but it seems like an awful lot of dough if I can vent the exhaust outside and not worry about it.


Mike
Mike L.

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Re: Split glass at end?
« Reply #21 on: March 02, 2019, 06:55:49 AM »
At 54 years old I am finally learning about dust collection and respirators but even now I get focused on what I am working on and forget to grab a mask.
There is no shortcut for experience.

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Re: Split glass at end?
« Reply #22 on: March 02, 2019, 07:06:14 AM »

Offline BMorv

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Re: Split glass at end?
« Reply #23 on: March 02, 2019, 09:16:22 AM »
I came to the same conclusion Mike.  Venting outside is the way to go if possible.  Get those fine particles out of your shop. 
That’s a sharp looking bow btw.
Life is too short to use marginal bow wood

Online Flem

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Re: Split glass at end?
« Reply #24 on: March 02, 2019, 09:51:44 AM »
Hey Mike, I'm not familiar with that particular Fuji, but sometimes with a HVLP their isn't enough pressure to push thick finishes and get good atomization. Have you tried thinning it to different viscosity? Also the tip needs to be matched to the type of finish. Typically smaller for solvent based. I always recommend a cheap Ford cup to measure viscosity as a point of reference. Make sure your turbine filters are clean, those things suck in a lot of air that can easily contaminate the finish. If you can place the turbine in another room, cause they exhaust a s-ton of air and can stir up a lot of dust. Good luck.

Offline Mike L.

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Re: Split glass at end?
« Reply #25 on: March 02, 2019, 03:51:22 PM »
Thans for the info, lig.  I did try thinning the water based stuff.  It recommended no more than I think 10%?  I got all weird about the math and it didn’t do much but maybe take a couple of seconds off the viscosity cup.  One thing that did help immensely is running it under hot water, but then as I tried to adjust the volume, it cooled off.  Still, I think that’s a good indication that the viscosity is the issue with the water borne (not based) finishes.  Is Krystal solvent based?  Do you happen to know what tip size they recommend?  I’ve got the smallest one for doing cerakote, and a few more; in fact I think I have all but the #2.

Thanks, guys, about the bow.  I’m really enjoying it.  I’ve got 2 more I want to make already, but I’m pausing to put that cnc mill into play, first, and get the template sander set up.  That last bow has two old buddies wanting to buy one.  Won’t charge them more than cost, but maybe some day soon I can start supplementing income doing crap I’d want to do for free!
Mike L.

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Re: Split glass at end?
« Reply #26 on: March 02, 2019, 05:14:00 PM »
I would not worry about the recommended thinning, just experiment till you get good atomization. Don't know about Krystal, does it clean up with water or thinner? Thats your answer. Is your gun gravity feed or pressure cup. I have always found it harder to get good finish with a pressure cup, takes more fussing with. Try cranking up the air flow and choking off the fluid flow, and slowly open up the fluid till you get a good pattern. Try experimenting with your tips also, HVLP's are harder to tweak, you cant really increase the pressure only the air flow. I abandoned my turbine for everything but spraying thinned sealer coats, mostly shellac.

Offline Mike L.

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Re: Split glass at end?
« Reply #27 on: March 02, 2019, 05:19:03 PM »
Damn.  I thought that was the way to go.  It’s a pressure cup, in that it has an air supply that goes into the top, but it’s listed as a gravity fed.... I also have a 110v electric finish sprayer I picked up from amazon for like 40 bucks.  I intended to buy it to spray latex on walls but mistakenly bought one for clear finishes only.  Wonder if maybe I should give that at try before sending it back?


Mike
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Re: Split glass at end?
« Reply #28 on: March 02, 2019, 05:56:52 PM »
Hey I'm sorry if I sounded discouraging, not my intent. Your setup should work fine, just more fussy to dial in. I checked out Krystal. Sounds like good stuff, high solids and long pot life. I have a local store that sells Campbell's, going to have to try it out. They say its ready to spray at package consistency, I would still adjust it to your equipment. Your turbine is a 2 stage which typically require more thinning to push finish thru and get good atomization . If you don't want to catalyze and waste your expensive finish, you can experiment with Karyo syrup thinned with water and match viscosity with your Ford cup. If you do, make sure to flush it out really well, the sugar will eat up the metal otherwise.

Offline Mike L.

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Re: Split glass at end?
« Reply #29 on: March 03, 2019, 09:58:55 AM »
No way, man, don’t be sorry.  I appreciate the advice!  I’m no snowflake.  Lol. 


Mike
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Re: Split glass at end?
« Reply #30 on: March 03, 2019, 11:12:51 AM »
I use a 1.4 tip in a fenix 1000 HVLP gun. I spray  Krystal unthinned, clean gun with Lacquer thinner.

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