Shown in the images (all will click to enlarge) are a matched set of Port Orford Cedar arrows - tapered 5/16+" shafts from Rogue River, True Flight 5" parablic barred left wing feathers, 9/32" BJ nocks, 125 grain 11/32" field points (due to the oversize of the shaft, 5/16" points were way too small and 11/32" seemed the better choice - the very slight oversize lip is faired to the shaft with the point epoxy).   Length, from nock groove to the back of the field point is 28" even.   Completed average arrow weight is 473 grains with a spine of 50/55#.

Shaft Finish
The shafts were first given a quick rub with 0000 steel wool, then a light wipe-on MinWax alcohol based walnut stain to the 9" long cap area.   Next, two coats of water based polyurethane is wiped on, with a rub of steel wool between coats.   I use a small 3" or so square of clean T-shirt as a wiping rag, soaked in the polyU and squeezed out well (wear a rubber glove!).   Thinly wiped coats, NOT globbed on!   Fast drying water based acrylic paint is used to crest just below the cap area.   I use a 3/16" brush for the large areas and a fine 00 sable brush for the separator lines.   An electric screwdriver, with a small piece of surgical tubing attached to the bit as a "chuck" for the nock, is my cresting "machine".   The shaft rides on a foam "V" block to keep it fairly steady, and a piece of paper marked with the crest widths is used as a paint guide.   Works well.   Fast and cheap.   A final wipe of polyU readies the shaft for completion.

The Hardware
The nocks are glued on (Duco), the shafts are cut to length (after measuring, I use a sharp knife pressed hard to the shaft and rolled - makes a very clean cut similar to a tubing cutter) and the point tapers are added.   After fletching (I use a pair of ancient Hoyt Tri-Heli fletchers and each will do 3 feathers at the same time - fletching cement is good old Duco) the field points are attached using 5 minute epoxy to bond.

"I went to a local tool store where they specialize in used tools and equipment and purchased a small 12v D.C. motor. A motor is preferred because they operate better at different speeds especially the lower speeds. I paid $5.00 for the motor."



"I took my $5.00 motor and mounted on a scrap piece of wood by drilling holes into the wood on either side of where the motor will be mounted. I then attached the motor using two plastic tie wraps spaced apart to provide a more secure hold. With another piece of scrap wood I cut a "V" and mounted it to provide a rest for shaft. The bottom of the "V" is at the same height of the spindle of the motor. Next I took a piece of surgical tubing and slipped it over the spindle leaving about 1/2" extended for attaching the shaft later. The motor (pictured is relatively High Tech) can be any train transformer with an output of 12 volts. I soldered a couple of wires with alligator clips to make it easier to hook up the motor. I've priced used (toy grade models) transformers the local model train store for $2.00 to $5.00. Most anyone with kids will have one sitting around. Even with a cheap motor, one can use a wide range of speeds to crest. It took me all of about thirty minutes to build and it works great!"

"The shafts are Chundoo (from Kelly) spined at #55-#60 @ 28" with 125 gr field points. I stained them with Rit Dye, top is red and bottom is black, in alcohol and coated with water base Poly. The cresting is done with an alcohol enamel paint and then a couple more coats of poly. The feathers are 5" Trueflight shield cut Red and Grey Barred and the hen is white. I have always used a three color combination in red, black, & white."