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Loctite 420 for cracked tip.

Started by adudeuknow, September 05, 2014, 08:03:00 AM

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adudeuknow

I was shooting last night as I always do in my basement. I tend to move around at random distances and just shoot. Ceiling is plenty high enough but there are steel beams. Apparently I got too close to one and my top tip hit it and now has a 1/2 inch crack. it stops well before the string groove.

i was going to mask the bow off and use loctite 420 and then clamp for 24 hours. i have heard this method before from many people but wanted to make sure there isn't some new technology out there that would do a better job.

i am sick to my stomach about it. i just bought this dream catcher this past winter and i am really shooting lasers with it. as soon as i realized there was a small crack i unstrung it.
"I knew all the rules, but the rules did not know me."

Ron LaClair

Loctite 420 is great stuff I've used it many times. It will get into the crack and hold. I have heard of nothing better.
We live in the present, we dream of the future, but we learn eternal truths from the past
When you were born, you cried and the world rejoiced. Live your life so that when you die, the world cries and you rejoice.
Life is like a wet sponge, you gotta squeeze it until you get every drop it has to offer

adudeuknow

that's what i heard as well. thank you for the reply.
"I knew all the rules, but the rules did not know me."

oldbohntr

Just to add my two cents worth, I agree that 420 is the solution.  It will go to the bottom of any crack that is open to receive it.  But, I had a tip crack UNDER the finish once and have had to fix similar cracks in risers and limbs. If the crack doesn't come through the finish-test with your fingernail-then I'd advise sanding the finish off in that area and refinishing after the 420 dries. A tip is very easy to do. Often you can carefully dip it in a small container of thinned finish and let it drip dry. Use several dips.

The other method to open the crack to receive the 420 is to take a sturdy pin and carefully scratch along the trace of the crack.  Get clear through the finish so you are certain the crack is open.  Apply a tape barrier as close to the crack as you can.  Then take a hypodermic needle and suck up a little 420. push the plunger to get a tiny drop on the tip and then back the plunger off ever so slightly so the needle tip just appears wet. Then use it like a pen to trace the crack.  The "ditch" you scratched in the finish-along with the tape barrier should prevent the 420 from flowing all over.  Apply several coats to insure the crack is full.  When it dries sand(1500 and then 2000 grit wet/dry paper) and polish to match the surrounding area.  

I make custom sanding blocks for small repairs by gluing a dot of 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit to the eraser of a new wooden pencil.  Write the grit on the side of the pencil....it will last for several repairs.  

Above all, don't just apply 420 to a surface where you can't control it.....it is thinner than water and WILL make a mess! (but it can be sanded off w/o much problem.)
Tom

oldbohntr

To clarify the pencil sander suggestion.  use one new pencil with new flat eraser for each grit.
Tom

adudeuknow

thank you for that info. it seems like it will be very helpful once my 420 gets here in the mail
"I knew all the rules, but the rules did not know me."


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