String Stretch, tuning, and retuning

[techieok]

I am pretty new to all of this, I am shooting a hoyt gm and have established a good brace height of 7 3/8". My question is, what string type or material would you use for minimal string stretch? It seems as soon as I get everything perfect it only lasts a short time before I am twisting the string and moving my nok point. Which brings me to another question.  Where do you put your nok point? I have read anywhere from 1/8"-3/16" high. To be honest if you have any "tuning tutorials" you would like to unleash here I am all ears. I would really like to be schooled in this area. Thanks ahead to all who reply,

Scott.

[Night Wing]

Most strings will stretch. Some take about 100 shots before they quit stretching. Some take longer. Both of my bows have Dyna97 bowstrings.

I shoot 21/64" diameter aluminum arrows and the nock point on both of my bows is set at 5/8" high off the shelf.

I shoot off the shelf too. I'm also using a tab. Split finger style with one over, two under.

[JimB]

Go to bowmaker.net and read the tuning information.It is a real good tuning system and tells you how to establish your nocking point height.

Years ago,when people talked about nocking point height,they would say,1/8" or whatever and that referred to how high above level the bottom of the arrow was.Now,most refer to how high above level the bottom of the top nocking point is.You will hear numbers ranging from 3/8" to 3/4".Mine seems to like 5/8".

You can also look up and download stu's calculator and if you punch in all the correct data about your bow,draw length etc. it will get you very close to the correct,shaft,shaft length and point weight that you need.

I like screw in points and keep a big variety on hand to tune with.Varying shaft length and point weight changes the dynamic spine of your arrow and that is basically how you tune.Having a variety of point weights on hand and following the bowmaker tuning information,allows me to tune a set of arrows fairly quickly.Good luck.You came to a good site for getting the information you will need.

[techieok]

Thanks guys, I appreciate your time.

Scott.

[ishoot4thrills]

Once you have found where your nock point should be, you shouldn't have to reset it just from having to twist your string to raise the brace height. Your nock point location should stay the same. I keep my recurve strung all the time so my D97 string stretches constantly, at least somewhat. Twisting your string to readjust brace height is just something we must live with. It's not too big of a deal so don't sweat it a whole lot.

[Lee Robinson .]

If your nocking point moves when you twist your string, the string wasn't made right.

Watch my video on making a flemish bowstring.

I want to bring TWO THINGS to your attention in that video that prevent that problem.

1. All the strands in the body of the string (after both flemishs are done but before the body of the string is twisted together) should run parallel with each other (and not be like ropes).

2. Before adding the body twists, notice that I "pop" the string a few times to even out any minor inconsistencies that may remain. This is so one area of the body doesn't act differently than the rest of the body when your twists are added.

If you do that, it won't matter if your brace height was 5" or 10"...your nocking point won't go up or down as you twist or untwist the string.

Good luck.

Be sure to check out both Parts 1 and Part 2. You should see part 2 listed on the side.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rRe4aIlyRk

[stalkin4elk]

Bowmaker.net x2. Once your string is broken in then it will no longer stretch as mentioned. Now take it off and break in another string for a spare and you can handle field emergencies.Simple as that!Set your nock pt.so there is good flight w/o porpoising. If the string stretches(increased brace ht)then a couple of twists should correct brace and nock until break in is complete.

[JimB]

I should add,once you have found your best brace height and nocking point height,write that down.It will save you a lot of trial and error if things shift or you need to set up a spare string.

Speaking of which,whenever I buy a string,I buy 2,identical.I shoot one in,get it all setup with nocking points,silencers etc.I tune with that string after it is "shot in".I then take it off and keep it for my spare for that bow and setup the other string the same way,and keep that one on the bow.

[ishoot4thrills]

Originally posted by stalkin4elk:
........If the string stretches(increased brace ht)then a couple of twists should correct brace and nock until break in is complete.

When your string stretches, it lowers the brace height not increases it.    

Here's the link to the website as mentioned in above posts:

http://bowmaker.net/index2.htm

Click on the "bow tuning" link. Read it and apply it as it's the best I have seen.

[techieok]

I appreciate this much more than you guys know. I have became a traditional addict now. So any knowledge I can soak up is deeply appreciated. You all really stepped up to the plate to help me out so once again thanks to all.

Scott.