cutting carbons

[Beepy]

Does anyone cut carbon shafts without a high speed cutter?  Do you think a dremel and cutting wheel will work?  Any other ideas?

[JRY309]

Carbons I think need to be cut with some type of a high speed cutting tool.Sure you can use a dremel tool,but they are alittle more difficult to get a square cut.You can use the dremel tool and use a G5 squaring tool.I made a jig from an inexpensive mini cut-off saw from Harbor Freight Salvage for $24.00 for the saw and a scrap wood plank.I have less then $30 total and the jig allows me to make square cuts and repeatable length cuts.

[Rob DiStefano]

I use a Dremel with a thin, high speed carbide cutting wheel.  I mark the shaft's length on a jig, using a pencil, then cut the shaft freehand using the Dremel.  Easy to do and you might be surprised at how squared the cut end is ... I touch up each cut on a disk sander with 120 grit.  I use slow set epoxy to fasten the inserts, and make sure to smear a bit ot the epoxy over the last 1/4" of shaft.  It's also very easy to rig up a holder for the Dremel to make dead square cuts.

[shade seeker]

regarding epoxy... what do you think about using JB weld? I tried a shafting epoxy from a golf shop and the inserts came out... My practice target was a box filled with recycled card board -- basically a cardboard box filled with cardboard... Man! but I'll tell ya it's hard to pull arrows out of that stuff.

Long story short I'm now looking for a better adhesive...

shade seeker

[KY..Rob]

The Dremel works great for me.

And for a good  adhesive I have been using Goat tuff, works pretty good on my GT's no complaints so far..Knock on Wood..

[dadto2]

A dremel works great.JB quick weld never lost a insert yet.And they remove easily with heat onn the point.

[JRY309]

I prefer to use Bohning Powerbond for my inserts.I think the key is to prep the shaft,I etch the inside with a prep tool or a bore brush,then clean with alcohol and let dry.Then I'll etch the insert whether it is brass or aluminum with alittle sandpaper and then I'll glue it in with Powerbond and have never lost an insert,and I can get them back out.JB Weld will work but I only use it for automotive repairs when it is necessary.I have bought used carbons before and could not get the inserts out no matter what method I tried,I don't know what was used to install the inserts.That is why I don't buy anymore used carbons unless they are long enough to cut the insert out if it won't come out.

[Hamish]

Yeh Dremel by hand i just wrap some electrical tape around the shaft first to mark where to cut. Make sure you wear safety glasses and dust mask to be safe. And i think JRY309 is spot on with preping the shaft first before glueing as i had some come out when i did'nt do that.

[LEOPARD]

I use the dremel tool as well. I've cut a bunch of arrows with it, all being very accurate with no problems!  

[Stone Knife]

I use a 4" grinder with a cutoff wheel in it, I would think that a dremel tool would work just fine. JB weld works good.

[outbackbowhunter]

In most bigger hardware stores, you can buy a tool that accepts a 4" grinder to become a mini drop saw

A thin cut off disc in the grinder and you're good to go.

The grinder drop saw adaptor tool costs me less than $20.

This is in Australian dollars, but wont be much more in $US.

[Apex Predator]

I clamp my dremel on my work bench.  Then I take a field point and mount it in a block of wood at the same height as my cutting blade.  I clamp the block of wood at the proper distance from the blade.  I hold the nock end of the shaft on the end of the field point and roll the shaft in my fingers as I push it into the fast spinning cut-off wheel.  Perfect cuts for me.  Hope this was clearer than mud.

[Rob DiStefano]

There are lotsa different types and grades of "epoxy" - I use the same quality, 30 minute slow set NHP epoxy that I also use for luthiery work.  

After cutting off the excess carbon tube, I smear on a bit of the thoroughly mixed epoxy onto the naphtha (lighter fluid) cleaned insert and twist into the tube.  I don't bother to clean the inside of the tube, leaving in any fine residue carbon dust to mix with the epoxy.  

With the insert seated, the epoxy that squishes out is removed by twisting the shaft end on a paper towel - this smears some of the epoxy over the last 1/4" or so of the shaft.  

[NDTerminator]

I did the Dremel route, but the best move I made was when I quit screwing around and just invested in an arrow saw. 5,000RPM model will do the job, and they are under $100 new.  Way easier, way more precise, way faster.  Buy one, you won't ever regret it...

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by NDTerminator:
I did the Dremel route, but the best move I made was when I quit screwing around and just invested in an arrow saw. 5,000RPM model will do the job, and they are under $100 new.  Way easier, way more precise, way faster.  Buy one, you won't ever regret it...

No question that an arra saw is a no-brainer best, but I get really great results using a Dremel freehand ... and that $100 buys me another 2 dozen carbon shafts.  :D