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Anyone ever tapped a Magnesium Riser?

Started by DanielB89, May 08, 2017, 11:36:00 AM

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DanielB89

Has anyone ever tapped a bear magnesium riser for a side mount quiver?  


I am looking into quiver options and the side mount just seems like the best option for it, if it can be done.  


I have an A mag, so its rather short.  I am not sure if I want the standard insets to accept a quickie quiver, or is I want one that will accept a side mount from one of the sponsors.  Looking for info.

Daniel
"Blessed is the man who trusts in the LORD And whose trust is the LORD. Jeremiah 17:7

"There is a way which seems right to a man,
But its end is the way of death."  Proverbs 14:12

nineworlds9

Magnesium alloy like that should be pretty easy to drill, probably softer than steel.  You could either carefully drill holes for quiver inserts...just make the holes ever slightly smaller than the knurled part of the insert and then tap the inserts in making sure you do it straight, or if they won't grab/hole ever so slightly too large just epoxy them in.  You could also just drill the holes and tap them directly, but I wouldnt if you thought you'd remove the quiver often, as the mag threads might not hold up to repeated use.  A drill press or drill with a level or a real good eye could do this project.  Use a small pilot bit and then work your way up, drill steady without heating up the bit.
52" Texas Recurve
58" Two Tracks Ogemaw
60" Toelke Chinook
62" Tall Tines Stickflinger
64" Big Jim Mountain Monarch
64" Poison Dart LB
66" Wes Wallace Royal
            
Horse Creek TAC, GA
TBOF

nineworlds9

52" Texas Recurve
58" Two Tracks Ogemaw
60" Toelke Chinook
62" Tall Tines Stickflinger
64" Big Jim Mountain Monarch
64" Poison Dart LB
66" Wes Wallace Royal
            
Horse Creek TAC, GA
TBOF

Walt Francis

The mag risers tap well, just go slow, use lots of oil, and clean the flies constantly.  I tapped a Darton Mag riser earlier this evening for a bowfishing reel without any issues.
The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

Walt Francis

Regular Member of the Professional Bowhunters Society

last arrow

Try tapping it. If the threads pull out redrill and add an insert.
"all knowledge is good. All knowledge opens doors. Ignorance is what closes them." Louis M. Profeta MD

"We must learn to see and accept the whole truth, not just the parts we like." - Anne-Marie Slaughter

Michigan Traditional Bowhunters
TGMM "Family of the Bow"

DanielB89

QuoteOriginally posted by Walt Francis:
The mag risers tap well, just go slow, use lots of oil, and clean the flies constantly.  I tapped a Darton Mag riser earlier this evening for a bowfishing reel without any issues.
Have any pics to share?
"Blessed is the man who trusts in the LORD And whose trust is the LORD. Jeremiah 17:7

"There is a way which seems right to a man,
But its end is the way of death."  Proverbs 14:12

DanielB89

I also see that I may have misused words.  Instead of tapping it, I really mean drill a hole to insert some quiver inserts.  


I am going to try it soon if my current quiver situation doesn't work out.  

Still trying to refinish the riser.  Should finish that up today.
"Blessed is the man who trusts in the LORD And whose trust is the LORD. Jeremiah 17:7

"There is a way which seems right to a man,
But its end is the way of death."  Proverbs 14:12

JimB

I personally would drill and tap but I'm sure an insert could be used but I don't know why you would.Don't forget,the thinnest metal is behind that sight channel,so it may not be thick enough there.

Charlie Lamb

I put inserts in mine. No problems. Do it just like any other bow. I do like to put a little super glue gel on the insert before pressing it in place.
Hunt Sharp

Charlie

M60gunner

Let us know how it works out. I had an expensive lesson with my B riser. The bottom bracket pulled loose on me. The screwswent one way the limb another. I bought steel inserts and the kit to install them. That cost me $70 and some strange looks from the "biker" shop guy. Reason I went with the steel was they are used in carburetors when repairing them for race cars.

Walt Francis

DanielB89,
No pictures of doing the actual tapping.  Here is a picture of the finished product, the reel on the riser.


The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

Walt Francis

Regular Member of the Professional Bowhunters Society

Gun

Your best bet on both A and B is just knock out the medallion form inside the sight window. Its usually just pressed in there. Tap with a pin punch and soft hammer or mallet.
Then drill hole to 1/4". Put a 1/4" nylock nut in the groove and either make or adjust the brackets on your quiver and simply bolt to the nut.Use the other bottom built in thread as is. It's 1/4" too. I use hex cap screws. If you ever decide to sell it just hot melt the medallion back in.
It's really simple. Just don't take those borderline shots. Tomorrow is another day.

Bigjackfish

I would drill and tap it for a helicoil insert which is stainless steel,strong and better than screwing in and out of the magnesium. Magnesium is much like aluminum only lighter ,I work with metal and I don't recommend drilling a hole and force fitting an insert that is for wood it will most likely pull out in a short time

Joe2Crow

I bought a B-mag a couple of years ago and it had two small holes in the riser that were spaced to fit a kwikee kwiver bracket but they weren't tapped. So I tapped them and put a bracket on it.  Never gave much thought that it might not be strong enough.  I like a kwikee kwiver but only until I get in my tree.  Then I take it off.  Working so far.

Walt Francis

QuoteOriginally posted by Bigjackfish:
I would drill and tap it for a helicoil insert which is stainless steel,strong and better than screwing in and out of the magnesium. Magnesium is much like aluminum only lighter ,I work with metal and I don't recommend drilling a hole and force fitting an insert that is for wood it will most likely pull out in a short time
You are correct, the thread are not nearly as snug as when tapping steel.  I agree if you are going to take the quiver on and off.  For me, this bow will only be used for bowfishing, the reel seat will not be coming on and off of the riser.
The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

Walt Francis

Regular Member of the Professional Bowhunters Society

Walt Francis

QuoteOriginally posted by Bigjackfish:
I would drill and tap it for a helicoil insert which is stainless steel,strong and better than screwing in and out of the magnesium. Magnesium is much like aluminum only lighter ,I work with metal and I don't recommend drilling a hole and force fitting an insert that is for wood it will most likely pull out in a short time
You are correct, the thread are not nearly as snug as when tapping steel.  I agree if you are going to take the quiver on and off.  For me, this bow will only be used for bowfishing, the reel seat will not be coming on and off of the riser.
The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

Walt Francis

Regular Member of the Professional Bowhunters Society

jess stuart

I tapped an old bear compound riser for a quiver.  I used the 1/4 x 20 inserts from Bingham Projects which require tapping as they are threaded, a bit of epoxy and it is good to go.  Hint a little tape on the bottom of the insert will keep epoxy from getting into the threads, doesn't take much glue.


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