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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: TIM B on November 21, 2015, 06:00:00 PM

Title: Screw in eskimo's
Post by: TIM B on November 21, 2015, 06:00:00 PM
Just got a few to try.  Shot 2 arrows into the "block" and one of the heads pulled off in the block.  I was able to dig it out. What's the best glue epoxy for putting it back on?
Title: Re: Screw in eskimo's
Post by: Carpdaddy on November 21, 2015, 06:08:00 PM
I use the stuff Big Jim sells, a hot melt. Or most any local shop will carry the ferrel tite hot melt, hope I'm not remembering the name wrong, if so somebody will clean it up hopefully.
Title: Re: Screw in eskimo's
Post by: carbonflyr on November 21, 2015, 07:12:00 PM
i like jb weld
Title: Re: Screw in eskimo's
Post by: carbonflyr on November 21, 2015, 07:13:00 PM
i like jb weld...damn double post
Title: Re: Screw in eskimo's
Post by: SlowBowinMO on November 22, 2015, 03:58:00 PM
I prefer two part epoxy for a permanent bond or low temp hot melt if I may want to change things up later.

I have always heard good things about the JB Weld as well but have never tried it as I was satisfied with the epoxy.
Title: Re: Screw in eskimo's
Post by: J-dog on November 22, 2015, 10:32:00 PM
Hot melt or epoxy, be sure you clean out the ferrule and the adapter with some acetone or lacquer thinner. You'll be surprised the junk you clean out of there.

I use hot melt. Six to one half dozen to ther other.
Title: Re: Screw in eskimo's
Post by: T Lail on November 23, 2015, 07:51:00 AM
hot melt has all ways worked for me....just make sure head and adapter are clean.......
Title: Re: Screw in eskimo's
Post by: Jon Stewart on November 23, 2015, 08:45:00 AM
As mentioned, Clean the inside of the head and the adaptor before gluing. I use an old tap on the head and on field points before I glue.
Title: Re: Screw in eskimo's
Post by: NY Yankee on November 24, 2015, 12:28:00 PM
Hot melt works just fine but you need to do 3 things. 1.Burn the oil out of the ferrule in the head. 2. Make sure you have enough glue on the insert and that it is spread evenly all the way around. 3. make sure the head is fully seated to the bottom on the insert. I always seem to over do it on the hot-melt but Ive never had a point come off and I don't really mind trimming off the excess glue. Glue is cheaper that broadheads.
Title: Re: Screw in eskimo's
Post by: mangonboat on November 24, 2015, 09:50:00 PM
I've done the same thing twice this year and I'm convinced the Ferrule-Lite is brittle and you just never know it because you're pushing in. When you retract the arrow there's no adhesion. I am going to start using 2-part epoxy.
Title: Re: Screw in eskimo's
Post by: bigiron on November 25, 2015, 07:25:00 PM
I have found the two part epoxy that I use for golf club building to be far superior to any thing else I've ever used. I get it from Golfsmith or Maltby golf supply.