hello everyone,
I took some plans offline and built a flemish jig. did some reading on here and watched youtube vids. Built a string it came up short built a second and came in short again. I used the 62" post and the string is coming in 53.5 with just a few twists into it.
I am starting my loops at 10" on both sides. I need a 58" sting with a 62" bow. using 16 strands of d97
ill add a pic of my loops when I figure out how to post pics
any ideas? Im going to measure what the length is of one wrap around the jig maybe I laid it out wrong
(//%5Burl=https://flic.kr/p/BiqZiP%5D%20%5Bimg%5Dhttps://farm6.staticflickr.com/5773/23169742781_848cfa4616_b.jpg)[/url] image_1447986018747 (https://flic.kr/p/BiqZiP) by matt dierker (https://www.flickr.com/photos/138049438@N08/) , on Flickr[/IMG]
one pass around my jig using the 62" post gives me 71.5" when cut down the center
10" seems a bit long to me. I generally go about 7" and it has always worked for me..
First, a board marked for bow length rather than string length is going to be a headache if you make many strings. Not every bow gets a string 4" shorter, not even every recurve.
String length can vary depending on material, strand count, how you twist, loop size, etc. Lots of variables to consider.
Take notes and measure everything. Adjust as needed. Not everyone makes a string the same, even when following the same directions.
Chad
Matt, what Chad states is true!
Build a foundation, and work from it. Find consitency and record everything. Your nock loops look good, the right loop in pic, the neck of the body looks loose compared to the left loop!
Your on track, it's like building a recipe for a bowyer, building a laminated bow.
Pointer nailed it. The place where you start to twist your loops will vary depending on how your jig was built. I generally start at 8 to 8.5 inches from the ends. You're gonna have to experiment. Isn't twisting your own fun? I love it. I just put on some cool music, go to my happy place, and just twist away.
Steve
It really doesn't matter what numbers are marked on your board; just think of them as somewhat arbitrary index marks. On my board, the way the string doubles back on itself, every time I move a peg back 1", it increases the overall string length 4". Figure this out for your board, which may be different from mine. Knowing this, you should be pretty close on your second attempt. For example, if I make a string that is 2" too short, on my next attempt I will move my pegs back 1/2". Of course, as you're learning to do this, you're not going to be totally consistent from string to string, so whatever adjustment you make might not be perfect.
Then when you get a string that is right, mark down everything on a card, and you'll know how to make a perfect string for that bow the next time. Mark down type of string material, number of strands, pigtail lengths (top and bottom nocks), nock loop sizes, which pegs used, and number and types of nock padding strands (if used). I get pretty precise on this. If I feel Iike my string is okay, but has a few too many twists, I'll write down a peg that is 1/4" shorter than the one I actually used, thus decreasing the string length by 1", so that the next string I make will end up having fewer twists.
I have enough cards now that I can usually make a string that works the first time for any bow I'm likely to make one for, even if the bow is a different length than I've made one for before, by interpolating from one or more of my cards.