Anyone use the Big Jim Hot glue with hit inserts and FMJ's. I bought a couple single shafts so I can determine what spine I want to use. They did not come with the Easton glue. In the past I use either JB Weld r the glue that came with the arrows.
Im sure you wont have any problems with the BigJim glue. Ive never had any problems with it. But i dont use the easton shafts or the hit inserts. I will say its easy to remove and change inserts with his glue. I would contact him and ask him.
It will work
I do with axis shafts. I heat the insert on a point a little then melt some hot glue on it, insert into shaft til about 1/8th of an inch of insert is sticking out. At this point I unscrew the point, wipe of excess glue, use the HIT tool to seat the insert to the proper depth, and lastly dunk in water to cool. I've had no failures since i started using Big Jims glue, just be sure to clean the inside of shaft, I also score it a little with a small bore cleaning brush.
That is exactly what I use on my FMJ's, and I have yet to lose a single insert in a target! I do not clean the inside of my shaft or the insert (I use full length shafts, so I do not get debris inside from cutting the shaft).
That glue is the best stuff out there for inserts on just about any arrow!
Bisch
Also cold wet weather hasnt hindered the glues preformance either. It stays pliable and doesnt get hard and brittle like most does. I believe that what makes it hold better.There is a video of BigJim shooting a broadhead in a tree and him tring to pull it out to show you how well it holds.
I have used Big Jims glue for my standard inserts for a year a so now with great success. Just never used it for my HITS.
I've used it for years. Tim Cosgrove at Kustom King turned me onto it 5 years ago or so and I've done hundreds of Axis shafts with it and no failures. I used to clean them with alcohol and q-tip swab, but don't even do that anymore.
Heat the hit insert a LITTLE, put some of the hot melt glue (Jim's/Kustom King, it's the same stuff) on the BOTTOM of the insert only (it will spread up the insert as your pushing it in) and then right before it's completely in, wipe the excess off, then use the HIT tool to push in the remainder of the way. I don't cool in water, however leave your shafts horizontal on a flat surface until the insert cools.
To remove, screw in a field point almost all the way and heat the point with a torch for about 4-5 seconds. Wait about ten seconds and then start to pull on the point with a pair of pliers. The insert should come out at that point. You don't want to overheat the shaft either on inserting or removing. Use just enough heat to soften the glue each time. I've never had a problem with brittleness of shaft or glue, so I stick to the just enough heat theory.
Thanks for all the feedback. Will give it a try this evening after all the good reports.
thats all I use these days
Made up a set of FMJ's for my brother with Big Jim's hot melt. That stuff is the bomb. Best stuff I've used on any carbons. I like Gold Tips myself and I haven't lost an insert in years.
Hit inserts do not have a collar so the glue is the only thing that keeps the point from pushing into the shaft if something hard is hit. This of course would split the shaft. That is why Easton includes 24 hr. epoxy with the shafts.