I will be using Simmons Landsharks this fall and am looking for any help with getting them razor sharp. I have both a file and stone. Any recommendations on technique to make them shave the hair on my arm would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Razor Sharp system wheels should do it. Centaur reccomends for their heads ans they are curved like landsharks.
I use the paper wheel system on a bench grinder.
Super easy once you get the feel for it,puts a scary sharp edge on them quick.
Please remember you don't really want them razor sharp ......you want them to be able to shave hair but have a durable edge .....a true razor-sharp head will roll the edge at the first sign of a rib and if hit on entrance you will run a dull broadhead through the animal ......you want a sharp edge that will also exit the animal sharp meaning it was sharp all the way through and performed its duties from one side to the other without rolling an edge and pushing veins and arteries out of the way instead of cutting them.
check out the how to forum, landshark160's method seems to work pretty well
good hunting
The quickest, fool proof method (and cheapest) is to use a RADA wheel sharpener... less than ten bucks. Then a ceramic rod hone or jewel stick.
(http://www.tradgang.com/upload/charlie/RADASharpener.jpg)
I think Ron at KME has stones for sharpening the concave shape heads now. That's more costly, but fool proof and makes a scary sharp edge.
QuoteOriginally posted by Terry Green:
Please remember you don't really want them razor sharp ......you want them to be able to shave hair but have a durable edge .....a true razor-sharp head will roll the edge at the first sign of a rib and if hit on entrance you will run a dull broadhead through the animal ......you want a sharp edge that will also exit the animal sharp meaning it was sharp all the way through and performed its duties from one side to the other without rolling an edge and pushing veins and arteries out of the way instead of cutting them.
^^^ That.
I'm shooting Simmion Interceptors. Being a hobby knife maker, I have the benefit of having a belt grinder at my disposal. I use slack (no contact wheel or flat platen) J-flex belts up to around 400 grit. The slack belt gives a convex grind on the edge. It's a tough edge which you see a lot of knifemakers use on big bowies and choppers. The slack flexible belt also bends to follow the curved blades. After that, I use a leather wheel with white buffing compound rubbed on it. You can follow that with some hand stropping on the smooth side of a piece of leather if you want to hone it a little more. Haven't shot a deer with these yet, but I think they'll do the job. :thumbsup:
I get my German Kinetic and Magnus Stinger heads sharp with my KME knife sharpener.
Bisch
If you use any type of set angle sharpener such as KME,Lansky,Smith's or any of the others,you will need a set of half rounded stones or a file that is half rounded. Simmons also sells his own sharpener which I have and it works pretty good.
I use a curved 3 sided Jewel Stick with my Lansky sharpener. I set it at a 30 degree angle and it produces a durable edge that can shave hair easily.
I use the KME + 3-sided diamond jewel stick accessory that Ron sells. I used his regular jaws, but he also sells broad head jaws that apparently hold broad heads more securely and allow for better results. I had no problem getting them shaving sharp with my setup.
Shoot me a PM if you want some more details on the process I used.
Good luck
Charlie, do they stay sharp using the Rada?
I support the Jewel stick with the help of a razors edge broadhead guide. Work very well and will get them shaving sharp.
Good old fashioned Flat File and stropping works for me.
LD
Hard to beat the RADA!!
Ranger... they absolutely stay sharp. At least as long as other heads. The key is touching up the edge with the Jewel Stick to remove wire edge and burrs.
Work sharp knife sharpener makes very short work of the Simmons tree sharks I just bought! It has a loose belt and is only 1/2" wide so it works well with the curved edge. I have used the round chainsaw file and then a medium grade spiderco stone to take the burr off and it is must sharper, just a little more work to it.
Thanks for the info guys. Some of you sound like made scientists grinding, stropping, filing in the darkness of the night!
"Shaving Sharp" is NICE!!!!! But... If it's sharp enough to cut yourself, It's good enough!!! :rolleyes:
I like a regular flat file. But for funky edges like Tree Sharks... Use a Chain Saw file! :thumbsup:
Lots of good info!!!
I have an old Nicholson file, older than I am, that still works great....then a leather strop...and most of the hair is missing off of both my knees....so I think that's good.
I do like that method of stropping on your jeans though...I have discovered my Wranglers work pretty good for that....
I agree with Terry et al 100%.
Get them as sharp as you can but shaving sharp is not required. Remember, that thing is going thru tissue at 150+ fps. A piece of paper will cut flesh at that speed, a reasonably sharp broadhead will too.
An edge that is laser sharp, but thin ( in order to get it that sharp) has a really good chance for damage, just like Terry said.
Good luck
ChuckC
I'm with Terry et al in that you want a sharp but durable edge. That is one reason why I have done so much to learn to get a three-blade shaving sharp without compromising the inherent 60-degree angle of the edge. The angle of the three-blade edge is very durable, and when it is shaving sharp I have the best of both worlds -- durable and very sharp.
The same kind of durable and sharp edge can be attained on a two-blade, but it is important to resist the temptation to file down to a thin, fragile edge. An Accusharp or Smith tool will give you a very durable and sharp edge on a two-blade without getting it too thin.
I don't know where the idea that a honed and stropped blade won't stay sharp came from??? :readit:
Ron
I've been using the Rada wheels from Landshark and no where close to hunting sharp or Shaving. I'll pulled through method. What am I missing?
QuoteOriginally posted by Jayb:
I've been using the Rada wheels from Landshark and no where close to hunting sharp or Shaving. I'll pulled through method. What am I missing?
I have some good kitchen knives and then I have some of the Ontario Old Hickory knives as well. I use that type of pull through sharpener for the cheaper knives,and you have to use real light pressure. If you pull too hard you actually take chucks of metal out of the edge,and it's impossible to get the edge right.
On certain broadheads, it seems that a good file works best, perhaps the edge needs the coarseness that a file leaves for support. I use a Rada for taking an edge down myself at times, but correcting that edge with jewel stick makes for a more durable edge.
Try this link. It is on the How To forum on this site.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000102
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=145551;p=1
I haven't found a 2 or 3 blade traditional head I can't get shaving-sharp with a good file. I customize mine as shown. The rounded edge serves as my steel. One no-fail tool works 100% of the time.
There is a yout**** video that shows what Bill Carlsen posted.... very easy and flat out WORKS!
It's the system I use on my Tigershark broadheads.
Good luck, shoot straight and God bless.
Rodd
OldSkool what's the link of the video?
Round chain saw file 7/32" Oregon product # 23575. I have the RADA don't care for it at all.
58
i had my best luck on land sharks using a chainsaw file. i prefer a filed edge over a honed razor edge. they seem to hold up better in the quiver and are easily touched up in the field if need be.
Jayb,
I just checked and it's still there..... it's "sharpening Simmons broadheads" by Chris Spikes. ...
Very nice tutorial! !!
Enjoy, good luck, shoot straight and God bless!
Rodd