I am interested in building wood arrows. I think I have things figured out, except for one detail.
I have used Minwax Wipe-on Poly to seal the arrows. I have then used Bohning Fletch lac for the crown. I then crested my lines using Testors enamel gloss paint.
This is the detail I am missing-What do you use to seal the crown and cresting?
If I use Wipe-on poly, the cresting will run.
Any suggestions?
Thank you.
Just a guess but you are using lacquer to cap and enamel to crest which may be incompatible, hence the running. I've always capped and crested with enamel (acrylic) and had no problems using Wipe On Poly.
There's really no reason to seal the cresting. I use the same Testor's paint that you do and I typcially don't seal it. That enamel is pretty tough...sure, you'll get dings, and smears over time, but that's my preference.
When I make arrows for other folks, I crest before my last coat of seal. I seal with ProFin. I've never had any issues with Testor's enamel running with ProFin...the metallics can run on you though. The flakes might run a little. I usually give the metallics a day or two extra to dry before that last coat of ProFin.
Forgot to add...I use a dip tube for sealing with ProFin...let hang overnight to dry.
Water based poly.
MinWax water based Polycrylic. I am surprised the Laq went over poly without issues. You could have saved that first sealing by crown dipping first. The paint will seal the wood. Once I have the paint dry over nite I tape it off and apply stain/sealer. Then crest, I used to use Gasket Laq over the whole shaft but now use the water based poly to seal whole shaft.
I just went and got some Polycrylic. I can't wait to see what happens. Thanks for the advice.
I don't over-dip mine, but I use a different system.
Feibings leather dyes (yellow crown), MinWax Wipe-on, crest with Sharpies and then highlight cresting with Pilot metallic ink pens. They hold up well.
Keep us posted on how this goes....I've tried cresting in the past and it didn't turn out well...
Let me know if you crack the code...
When I first purchased Lost Nation Archery I would have trouble from time to time with crest lines smearing. There are so many options for finish, stain, and crest paint that I cannot possibly test them all. Five years into making arrows I found the magic to end smears.
We use our alcohol based stain and allow two hours to dry. Then we dip in gasket lacquer one time. We use acrylic paint for cresting and allow the crest paint 2-4 hours to dry. (Often it goes overnight.) Over the top of the crest I put two more coats of gasket lacquer and the crest will never rub off.
Here is the secret it took me five years to figure out: do not pause when you put the first coat over the top of the crest. If you go too slow or pause while dipping, the solvent in the lacquer will eat the crest lines. Dip quickly and the lines never smear.
As I said before, this system works with the stain, lacquer, and paint I use.
One other idea I might suggest is to purchase some spray lacquer at an auto parts place. Spray a thin coat over your cresting lines and it should help protect them. Spray very thin coats. If you spray too heavy it will probably cause the lines to run.
QuoteOriginally posted by Pat B:
Water based poly.
Yep. A water based clearcoat over the cresting helps seal it and protects is for another coat of oil based poly. I use a crafters clearcoat called Ceramcoat. I use gloss, but should use flat for re-dipping afterwards with oil based. But the gloss works so I roll with it. I apply the water based clear by using the cresting machine.
Ok, so I put the minwax Polycrylic over the crest lines. They did not smear. However, I did not get the type of protective finish I was hoping with one coat. I'm now thinking about applying a second coat or as Bud B suggests, putting a coat of wipe on poly over the polyacrylic. Not sure what will happen, but I'll report back. Wish me luck.
Try this, it works for me:
Crown Dip, and stain. Then put on your first coat of wipe on Polly over the whole shaft. Then crest with Testors acrylic paint. Then one more coat of wipe on Polly over whole shaft. You could probably do a third coat of polly if you want.
The wipe on Polly doesn't make the acrylic cresting run or smear. I always had a problem with my cresting smearing until I switched to this process.
Also note that I find it ok to put Polly over lacquer but not lacquer over poly
Minwax regular poly brushed on,3-4 coats. Lightly buff with 0000 steel wool on crown/crest area only. Krylon spray on crown. Testors cresting. 2 light coats Minwax regular poly SPRAY over the colors only. Very light buff again on fletch area. Duco for fletch and nocks.