How do you do it?
I have a Creger back quiver that rides quietly enough,it's nice and broken in. Problem is the fletch ends of my arrows criss cross. I tried to organize them so they wouldn't but by the time I get it on my back they just go where they want to. So when I reach back without looking I'll grab one that that's crossed and the BH scrapes its way up on my other shafts.(noisy)
I'm using Zwickey Eskimos and I have a peace of carpet in the bottom of my quiver.
Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
Tim
I made some little leather sheaths for my broadheads. I did it to help keep them sharper longer and to protect the inside of my quiver, but it cuts the noise a little as well. Not perfect, but a little quieter than metal directly against the shaft. Not a close up, but you can see it in this picture.
(http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg614/tomsm44/image_6.jpg) (http://s1246.photobucket.com/user/tomsm44/media/image_6.jpg.html)
from your question I assume you pull an arrow when you see game? You do not have an arrow on the string? Besides noise you are making movement which will spook a critter as well.
Rather than try to quite that quiver I would look into a solo arrow quiver that fits on the bow. at least it would cut down on the "flagging" motion of drawing an arrow from your back quiver. Also the noise. Of course you still have to be calm and not bang arrow against the bow.
I agree, make a solo quiver of some sort so that you have one in hand during those times that you might see game. I don't like to have one on the string until I see / hear game, but I use a solo quiver.
ChuckC
Black Widow offers a single arrow quiver with adhesive back. Works well for that first shot, minimal movement.
58
I too use a solo sheath for the one on my bow. The old timers used the shealths
(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah128/cavscout9753/9C20FF43-7210-4F3D-9648-6124161FABF8_zpshxngqtpm.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/cavscout9753/media/9C20FF43-7210-4F3D-9648-6124161FABF8_zpshxngqtpm.jpg.html)
I use wood arrows so mine are pretty quiet.
Thinking on it, the sheaths wont help when dragging a broadhead up a shaft, but my quiver is soft yet rigid so there theres some room in there so they dont drag too hard.
That article is the best one I have ever read on how to properly use a back quiver for hunting. No matter what type of arrows your shooting ( I use wood) you will learn from this article if you can find it.
I was looking for it as soon as I seen this post but haven't found it yet. Good read!!!
Tracy
You could contact Thunderhorn quivers and have them sell you some rubber arrow clips that you could attach to the top of the quiver.
You could also use some thicker foam for the bottom so the broadheads will stay put at the base.
http://www.thunderhornmfg.com/
K.S. - yep, still the best article I ever read on backquivers.
If your quiver is made properly and collapses well (broken in properly) it will hold arrows tightly....prevent them from falling out or becoming entangled. They stay quiet and secure and sharp without anything else.
(http://i481.photobucket.com/albums/rr180/two4hooking/pic10_zps6a239972.jpg) (http://s481.photobucket.com/user/two4hooking/media/pic10_zps6a239972.jpg.html)
(http://i481.photobucket.com/albums/rr180/two4hooking/pic4_zps2519fa49.jpg) (http://s481.photobucket.com/user/two4hooking/media/pic4_zps2519fa49.jpg.html)
I agree with two4. Nothing is needed on the broadheads. I have never even considered the arrows being noisy when I draw them out of the quiver but I have only used wood arrows.
The length of the arrows and the types of points in the quiver can make a difference even with the best broken in quiver. If the some long arrows are sticking a long way out and others are shorter, they will argue about space. Aluminum even it is teetering back and forth a little on the the tip of a deadhead can sound like a school bell in the woods. Nothing is as noisy is having a quiver full of criss crossed aluminum arrows with mixed broadheads, the only way to straighten it all out is to take the quiver off and put the arrows back in one at a time. Even then if there is judo point in there, they will all buddy up and when you go to jerk and arrow out after the first shot missed, half the arrows will come flying out of the quiver at once. Screw off the judo and stick it in your pocket. I hunt about half of the time with aluminum arrows, my rule is, if I am walking fast enough to clank my arrows, I am not hunting. When sitting I take three arrows out of the quiver and set them in easy to grab locations. Actually, I have gotten by with making quite a lot of noise and commotion jerking that second arrow out of the quiver and still killed the deer.
Well guys thanks for the input. I tried some of your tips last night and thought I was on to something with how I wear the quiver and my technique on extracting them . To no avail I just can't see hunting whitetails with it. Small game sure. I like my back quiver and had a blast shottimg with it in the yard drawing and nocking like,John Schulz.
I tried my Safari Tuff Arrowmaster again and was impressed with how much more quiet it was and much more stealthy for,drawing arrows. I put 6 BH s and 2 blunts in it. And it remained silent even when i jostled around. I'm not giving up,on my back quiver totally but for this weekend. It will be the arrowmaster.
Thanks again.
Tim.
No shame in that. Use what you feel good with! As a post script, the back quiver is like the wood arrow, like the long bow. The argument for using one is similar to the argument for using another, or another. For me at least. Trickier, sure. Handicap me, sure. Frustrating, yep. It takes time, some have it others really dont. Some want to spend it figuring these things out, others dont. There's no rule, and no "one size fits
all". Luckily (here at least), no matter which pool you decide to dip a toe into there will be folks willing to share their hard earned experience and help out.