I have older Wensel Woodsmans. I always get them to spin true eventually but sometimes it takes me a long time and a bunch of fiddling around to get there. Im using an arrow spinner and trying to apply pressure to get them straight. Does anyone have any tricks or suggestions for this? I'm spending 20 minutes or more on some heads to get them right. Frustrated!!
Thank You
Sometimes it's easy, sometime it can be fussy. Recently I got some hot melt glue the local compound shop guy sold me and it was impossible to get my broadheads aligned. You wouldn't think ti would really make a difference but it did! It was hard to work with and kind of lumpy. After an hour of frustration, I found a stick of the clearer stuff from 3 Rivers Archery in my toolbox and instantly was able to align my broadheads by standard procedure using a homemade spinner and some pressure where needed. You can apply pressure with the glue being a combination of warm or cold. Just press the broadhead on the table. Trial and error will get you there.
Note- sometimes you can bend an aluminum insert by accident. If that happens, replace it.
Agree with Tedd. All hot glues aren't created equal. Some of the them set up too fast to have time to align heads. This glue gives you plenty of time to align a broadhead without having to keep reheating them.
http://grizzlybroadheads.com/adapters.html
On wood arrows I use hot melt glue and turn the point until it spins true. If I have trouble I'll remove the head, add more glue then force the head on, twisting as I go. I spin the arrow with the point of the head on my finger tip or thumb nail. I can feel any wobble doing it this way.
I usually use cane or hardwood shoot arrows and they are never as "straight as an arrow" but I can get them to spin true by my method above and they shoot well.
Dotto on the glue. Sometimes I find the tip point of the shaft is either not cut straight enough or not smoothed evenly too. I keep a scrap piece of leather around just for points. I put glue atound the tip of the shaft, heat, press head on while spinning it, re-heat head while on the arrow shaft, spin and press again.
Terry from the Nocking Point gave me this tip and it seems to work very well so far:
While the glue is still pliable, drop the arrow straight down (point first) onto something hard, like a rock or pavement. The weight of the arrow and gravity work to your advantage to straighten things out.
I doubt this would help much if your insert or wood shaft isn't true, but it's worked for me so far. Hope this helps.
Try using the Ferr-L-Tite low temp, blue stick stuff.
Doesn't require much heat.
First put the head on the shaft without glue and spine it several times while applying pressure. Help to compress the wood and sures up the taper to the head.
Lay the head on the bench and be careful not to apply too much pressure. Don't want a cut finger or two.
Don't use too much heat melt glue. That can often make it difficult to move the head before the glue hardens.
QuoteOriginally posted by Orion:
Don't use too much heat melt glue. That can often make it difficult to move the head before the glue hardens.
Good advice. You don't need much of a good glue.
It is not like field points that need to resist repeated removal from targets.
Hopefully they will end up covered in blood and stuck in the dirt.
I use an alignment jig:
http://www.singlebevelbroadheads.com/Mounting_Aligning_the_Tuffhead.html
Because it has a reference dot to align the tip to,there is no trial and error spinning,so it goes much faster for me.Just tweak the point to the dot and it's done.It only takes seconds to align them perfectly.
I use a fast set epoxy and can align 3 heads with one mix of glue.
Im talking about heads that are already glued. I use gorilla super glue.
I like the alignment jig. Does anyone sell them?
Thanks!!
For me, super glue(no matter the brand) is too permanent for broadheads. I like the hot melt stuff so if a point does become out of line it can be adjusted with a little heat.
You dont need TOO MUCH glue, but you DO need ENOUGH glue. Some problems are caused by too little glue not spread evenly or enough to fill in voids and rough areas. I always use a piece of hard board to spin the points on and to push the heads on or use side pressure when needed. I NEVER cut, file or damage the factory needle point until AFTER the point is mounted and passes spin testing. I feel this is important.
I just figured this out on my own,but it works very good for me. I put all of them on pushing and twisting at the same time. The ones that are off I heat up the thread end real slow. I check it until I can barley get the adapter to turn with pliers. I push while turning,and the glue is just barley letting loose so when you stop it tends to stay right there. Give it a try it really works good.
Ive had too many come off with hot melt so I switched to the gorilla super glue. Maybe I should give hot melt another chance.....
I may be missing something, but I'm still not clear on this: are we talking points on wood shafts, or on inserts?
Doesn't make any difference. With hot melt glue, you can reposition the heads by warming them a little.
BD, if you use a more permanent glue, and you don't get the broad heads aligned correctly to begin with, there's not much you can do to realign them. Enough heat will usually break the bond, or a drill bit in the hollow shaft if you're shooting carbon or aluminum. Then it's a matter of starting over. I.e., clean out the head ferrule, make sure there are no lumps of glue left on the adaptor, wood taper, etc., and reglue.
I turn the shaft/adaptor in the broad head ferrule a turn or two as I push it in to squeeze out excess glue. Then, of course, I spin test before the glue cools. If the head is on crooked, I press the tip down at an angle in the opposite direction on a hard surface to straighten it. Test again and repeat as necessary. With hot melt, this sometimes requires rewarming the head.
If you have a glue that sets up fast, and you don't get it right quickly, see the second paragraph above. Good luck.
QuoteOriginally posted by BD:
Im talking about heads that are already glued. I use gorilla super glue.
In that case,you need to heat and remove the heads and start over.Any time a certain glue doesn't hold,it is usually due to how the surfaces were prepped.I usually twist a thin roll of sandpaper inside the point and give the adapter a quick sanding,sometimes wiping with acetone.
I don't know of anyone making that exact type of jig right now but you can make one easily.The reference dot is key.