http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html
If so I could use a little help understanding what I'm seeing...
My set up:
Arrow dynamic lite shafts (full length right now)
300 gr points up front
IM LEFT HANDED
Here's 3 six shot groups and target after 48 arrows at 15 yards
*Holes with black lines indicate bare shaft holes*
(http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q611/Kopper1013/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjbbjzamp.jpg) (http://s1166.photobucket.com/user/Kopper1013/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjbbjzamp.jpg.html)
(http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q611/Kopper1013/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsmurezco7.jpg) (http://s1166.photobucket.com/user/Kopper1013/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsmurezco7.jpg.html)
(http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q611/Kopper1013/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsibls5yhk.jpg) (http://s1166.photobucket.com/user/Kopper1013/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsibls5yhk.jpg.html)
(http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q611/Kopper1013/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbgzpqpvp.jpg) (http://s1166.photobucket.com/user/Kopper1013/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbgzpqpvp.jpg.html)
For a lefty (like myself) spine is showing a little weak. Nock right and paradoxing over the axis of the riser to land left. Both indication of weak spine. Does not look like by a lot. Trim a little length from the shaft if you are not already down to your desired length. If no length left, go up a spine and start process over.
Just remember a tad weak is better than a tad stiff. When you add fletching you add another variable that 'stiffens' the arrow. Don't be too stiff already. A tad weak is where you want to stop.
I'd also say you're probably close. I see you wrapped the bare shafts to make them a little closer to the fletched arrows dynamic spine. I even go a little farther. I weighed 3 feathers (right around 10 grains)and then added a wrap of masking tape where the feathers would be. That does stiffen up the bare shafts just a hair more.
It's hard to see what they are sticking in. Are the low-nock arrows just hanging loosely, or did they impact the target that way? I see a few with the nock high and some with the nock low. They could be bouncing off the shelf just a bit. I would be tempted to raise the nock height just a bit to see if that makes things more uniform.
Definitely don't cut more than 1/4" at a time. I think you are getting VERY close!
X2. Yep close. Cut them down 1/8 to 1/4 inch and you should be good to go. Just be careful cutting them. Do an 1/8 in if possible. IME with carbons a little cut can do a lot. I've had to by new arrows because I cut to much off at once and made them too stiff.
Thanks guys...Those are exactly the way they went into the target.
I'm also gonna add 2" aluminum arrow collars up from for a little protection , what will this end up doing to me?
I have Walk Back Tuned my compound for years to set the rest but after that I always used paper for the spine check.
To use this method you need to be able to group arrows if not, way to tell what is going on.
Kopper,
Weight up front will weaken dynamic spine, whether it is collars or heavier points. 2" Al collars won't change it a lot, but will make it a bit weaker. I would add the collars (or the weight as Bladespeek suggested) and shoot a few times before making your final cuts.
Go back to at least 20 before making any changes.
Fletched shafts impacting right,looks slightly stiff to me.I agree,I would want to tune with the footings now and farther out-to 30 yds if you can.
2" footings will app. 25 grs and that should noticeably weaken the spine and may get you right where you need to be.Ultimately,the broadheads will be the final determining factor.
JimB, OP is a lefty.
It would be OK to trim a little now now, but it would also help to get back to at least 20 to see what they do then.
Try a lighter point before cutting the shafts.
QuoteOriginally posted by Kopper1013:
Thanks guys...Those are exactly the way they went into the target.
I'm also gonna add 2" aluminum arrow collars up from for a little protection , what will this end up doing to me?
In my experience, adding some footings actually stiffened the arrow a little. For me, it was like it was making them 2" shorter. I wasn't expecting that result and ended up with shafts too short/stiff.
Put broadheads on and shoot some groups and see where you are at. Also start at 15yds and work your way back to 30-40 or more yds.
I always thought right is light and left is stiff. Looks like most of the bare shafts is showing stiff.
Ranger 3, OP is shooting left handed so it is reversed.
Whoops I missed that, thanks