Been using a pivot point on my bow. It is in the middle of the shelf, rather than in line with the deepest part of the handle. I find this makes my arrows fly a bit better.They still seem to be kicking a bit. Don't if it's the arrows or the shelf. I am using Easton Superlite 2114 cut to 28.5"(125gr up front, that includes inserts weight) My bow is #45 @28, my draw is 27.5"
My question is, Should I move it to the preferred spot (deepest part of handle) or just leave it where it is and adjust the nock point? Or are my arrows in need of some tuning?
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn36/simonmpati/IMG_20150809_182653_zpsc5xwpv2k.jpg) (http://s300.photobucket.com/user/simonmpati/media/IMG_20150809_182653_zpsc5xwpv2k.jpg.html)
I have always shot with a broken Matchstick under my Rug. Just seem to get better arrow flight that way.
It appears that this bow was created with radii ( side and bottom) at or near the center of the shelf / plate. A guess tells me you should maintain this. Remember, if you raised the rest (pivot point) you need to raise your nock point on the string, maybe more even.
ChuckC
My question is, Should I move it to the preferred spot (deepest part of handle) or just leave it where it is and adjust the nock point? Or are my arrows in need of some tuning?
I think it really depends on how you grip the bow. If you shoot with relaxed fingers, or an open hand. it souldn't make a bit of difference. But If you wrap your fingers all the way around the grip, it would be to your advantage to move it back to the deepest part of the grip and build up a crown at that point, so bow torque isn't an issue.
I agree with Kirk. How you grip makes all the difference even with a tuned arrow. You hold it different the next day or week and you arrows will not fly as well. At least for me.
I think your spine is a little stiff a 2114 spines about 421. With your 27-1/2" draw length and a 28-1/2" shaft with a 125gr tip. Try a 175 or 200gr point and see if they fly better with that shaft.
Thanks guys!